Friday, February 3, 2012

Gold Souks in the Desert



     Gold Souks everywhere!  Souks or souqs are small shops individually owned and grouped together in large indoor and outdoor traditional marketplaces.  Dubai, Abu Dhabi, Sharjah…  So much jewelry to look at, so little time.  

     'Saudi Gaudi' - That's what I called most of the gold jewelry sold in the souks!  Great name, right?  They totally lived up to the name I gave them too.  Where would I even wear these?   

     There are large, intricately designed necklaces with precious stones, shiny bangle bracelets, rings that glitter, and ear rings that dangle to your shoulders made of gold, rubies, diamonds, and sapphires.  The shopping experience is very seductive and it’s hard not to buy a piece of jewelry because the prices are good.


     Gold merchants are notoriously aggressive about selling their gold pieces, particularly the first sale of the day.  If you look too long or ask about a certain piece of jewelry, you’ll be wearing it home!  No kidding…  

     The salesman will immediately put the necklace or bracelet on you, hand you a mirror and smile, telling you how lovely the jewelry looks on you.  They don’t take ‘no’ for an answer. 




     There are no prices anywhere.  So, the bartering or negotiating begins.  You ask the price.  He answers with an inflated number.  You consider the price, then give him a number that’s maybe half.  And, so goes the game.  Either you like to bargain back and forth with sales people or you don’t.  But, this is how business is done in many souks, and not just the gold souks. 


     Be able to walk away from the deal, but do it politely.  I once saw a woman return to a shop in the gold souk to purchase a piece of jewelry.  But the salesman wouldn’t sell it to her because she had insulted him earlier in the day by not taking his final, low price. 

    She angrily stormed out of the shop with some very unkind words for the salesman slamming the door behind her.  This is part of knowing the souk culture and not offending the salesmen.  But, it’s also such a great feeling to score a terrific sale on the jewelry you covet.  
 



     Also, be sure that you have checked the price of gold before you shop because it is priced per ounce and changes daily.  The salesman will weigh it in front of you before the haggling begins.  The merchant will drive a hard deal and more because he knows you are a tourist.  If you have any Arab friends, ask them if they can recommend a gold shop and do your gold buying there. 



     The gold souks have an incredible selection of jewelry.  The hawkers stand in front of their small storefronts and verbally assault you to come into their shops to try the jewelry on or just take a look.  Again, once inside, remember it is really hard to say ‘no’. 

     There are gold souks in most large malls, as well as the famously large gold souk on Dubai Creek, Dubai, where tourists and locals go to buy their jewelry.  Abu Dhabi also has several wonderful gold souks.  


     One of my favorites was the Blue Souk or the Souk al-Marzaki (named for the beautiful blue tiles set in marble) in Sharjah.  Visually stunning souk right next to the Corniche, made up of two identical arched buildings with their infamous blue mosaic tiles set in marble.  



     It is an iconic landmark in Sharjah with over 600 shops on two floors.  The souk has nearly everything to buy from gold jewelry, flavorful dates, oriental carpets, pearl chests, prayer beads, Arabic perfumes and oils, electronics, kitchen wares, clothes, and exotic souvenir gift items.  Lucky me because we lived very close to his beautiful market. 
   


     So many gold shops displaying everything from gold earrings and bracelets to incredible, large, ostentatious gold necklaces you would expect a royal to wear.  These larger-than-life masterpieces are often purchased by wealthy Arabs for their brides on their wedding day and for their wives as gifts. 

     The stores are filled with all sorts of treasures!  I bought several scarves, prayer beads, small gifts items and small Oriental rugs.   

     We also bought very large Kilim carpets in Abu Dhabi.  These rugs are so called flatweaves, hand woven and have mostly colorful geometric patterns.  They look almost identical from top to bottom.  

     They can be used on both sides which is an advantage over other types of carpets.  The roots of the Kilims go back to the Nomadic people of the Middle East.  They served not necessarily as rugs, but more as blankets, saddle blankets, seat mats or wall decorations.  

     I love this photo of the Emirati man shopping for a Hooka pipe and perhaps some Shisha which is made up of tobacco, sugar/molasses, and fruit flavoring.  
   
     Smoking Shisha is enormously popular in the Middle East.
    
     And, yes, I smoked Shisha on my Desert Safari to celebrate my 60th Birthday.  We went Dune Bashing in a jeep with an experienced Emirati driver!  So much fun!!!

     I also learned to Belly Dance with a beautiful fringed and beaded hip shawl.  Went camel riding in the sand dunes with a striking full moon overhead.  Had an exquisite henna design painted on my hands which I totally loved.  Takes a couple of weeks to wear off!   

     The souks are such fun and exotic places to shop!  















1 comment:

  1. Great entry, Barbara! My friend who has traveled extensively in the Middle East laughed with great recognition of your tale. It was fun reading and sharing, thanks :)

    -jordan foley

    ReplyDelete