Sunday, December 1, 2013

Middle Eastern Women



Middle Eastern Women



Global Village in Abu Dhabi



     Separation of the sexes!  No togetherness here, unless you are viewing your potential husband under the watchful eyes of your parents.  Women and men together?  Not unless you’re married to him.  No, rather women together shopping, eating, having coffee or going to school.  

     I taught English as a Second Language (ESL) in both Abu Dhabi and Dubai to a few mixed classes (adult men and women), but mainly to segregated groups.  Women only in one class, then men only in the next class.  Most grade schools and high schools are for girls only or boys only, and not ever on the same campus.  Only the international schools, the British or American schools are integrated.  However, the local Emiratis typically do not send their children to these schools, only the most progressive parents would do that.
  

      There are ‘Women Only Beaches’, ‘Women’s Entrances’ at banks with all female employees and tellers, ‘Women’s Waiting Areas’ in most businesses and medical facilities.   

    Men are not allowed to even enter or walk through the areas where women are waiting or being served.        Women must have female physicians and, obviously, their OB/GYN is always a woman. 


     Bill was the Director of the Military Language Institute which was overseen by the Abu Dhabi government.  Therefore, our medical care was offered at the Military Hospital.  Of course, there was an enormous  ‘Women’s Only Entrance and Waiting Room’.  After you signed in and registered, they asked YOU to go to Medical Records and pick up your own medical records.  What?  So, both men and women stood in line together at the Medical Records Department.  
 

National Day, Dec. 2 in Dubai
     

    The Women’s Waiting Room was packed full of women in black abayas, hijabs or veils, nannies, crying babies, toddlers running everywhere, strollers obstructing the walkways and parked at inconvenient angles.  Waiting times varied from 30 minutes to two hours.    

   
     The Waiting Rooms contained very popular vending machines.  These Middle Eastern ladies loved Coke and Pepsi, salty chips and sweet goodies from the large machines.  Their children also carried bags of treats or chips around with them, and as most kids do, dropped lots on the floor.  TVs provided background noise to cell phones ringing, women speaking in Arabic and rowdy, loud children.   

     I think I had the youngest female OB/GYN in Abu Dhabi.  She was barely 23 years old and single.  I asked her how many years of medical school she had attended because she just looked so incredibly young.  She told me that she went to ‘college’ to study medicine and after four years, she was a doctor.  No additional training, no residency, no internship...  Just four years of medicine with, I hope, a concentration in obstetrics and gynecology.  And, after only a few visits, she invited me to her wedding for which she took off two months from work to prepare for the wedding and then for the month-long honeymoon, typically in Malaysia.   

Women on the Beach, Rotana Cove, Ras al Khaimah



   
    Wouldn’t you think that these women would be quite modest?   Well, the doctor’s office was the ‘changing room’, the ‘examining room’, and the room where the doctor talks with you and prescribes your medication.  Sometimes there was a curtain around the examining table, sometimes not.  So, I stripped my clothes off, put on the ugly blue gown with the opening in front and climbed upon the table with the crinkled paper alerting the OB/GYN that I was ready.  The doctor rolled her chair away her desk and came over to my side of the small, cold room to examine me.   

     Middle Eastern women marry very young because of the arranged marriages.  They begin having babies immediately, typically having several children.   Most couples hope to have a boy as their first born child.  If they have a girl first, there will most likely be several more pregnancies trying to have a son.

National Day, December 2 - Abu Dhabi



     Muslim women must also have female driving instructors.  There are women’s prayer rooms at all malls and businesses.  Most women pray at home rather than go to a mosque.  There is a separate prayer room for women in the Grand Mosque in Abu Dhabi, but most mosques typically don’t accommodate women during prayer times. 

     When I was the Executive Director of the American Business Group in Abu Dhabi, I had to have two separate large metal detectors at the entrance to the Gala Charity Ball at the Sheridan Hotel – one for men and the other for women.  We also had women security officers staffing the metal detectors and searching handbags. 


     How would you like to live under one big roof with your mother-in-law, father-in-law, sisters-in-law and brothers-in-law? 

    Getting married?  Pack your things and move in with your in-laws because that’s your new home.  Most young men and their new wives move into the groom’s home with his family after the wedding.  Now you’re really stuck with all of the females in the house, especially your lovely mother-in-law.  Hope she likes you and hope you like her!  You won’t be moving until the house is too full of couples and grandchildren.  Then, the oldest son and his family can move out.  But, you won’t be moving too far from your mother-in-law!



    The young Emirati bride can go out shopping with a group, visit her friends or go to the park with her relatives, but her mother-in-law usually knows where she is at all times and with whom.  She keeps a tight rein on the daughter-in-law’s activities and has informants everywhere.  Saving ‘face’ and acting appropriately at all times are important. 

     After the young couple begins having children or if the husband can afford a nice flat or villa, moving out could be an option.  But, being alone isn’t much of an option.  When the young bride has a baby, she moves back to her parents’ home to stay with her family for 40 days.  Her husband can come to visit her and the baby, but she won’t return to her husband’s family home until after the 40th night.  Again, a cultural tradition to support the new Mom and baby with family to support her. 

     How about the older Emirati women?  From what I’ve observed, women stop going out shopping, driving and to restaurants around 40-45 years old.  Women in the USA are in the prime of their lives during these years! Yet, in the UAE, I rarely saw Muslim women who were over 40, much less 50 or 60.  They have their daughters or daughters-in-law do the grocery shopping for the families.  I wonder who does their abaya and clothing shopping.   However, during our last stay in Dubai, things were changing slowly and I did see some older women out shopping.
     
       Occasionally, I would see a family with an older lady behind the screened section of a restaurant where privacy is a must.  Eating out is always a challenge because of their veils.  Women must either lift their veil to take each bite of food or be seated behind wood screens, curtains, in booths with doors or in an isolated family area in restaurants to remove their veil to eat.

     What about widows and divorcees?  They usually don’t remarry because there are few social occasions which would permit meeting or interacting with eligible men.  Also, most men, regardless of their age, want to marry young women who can have children.  So, widows or divorcees rarely go out in public nor are they introduced to men, unless a meeting is arranged. 

     The Emirati women who work are a bit more progressive and at least have the ability to have a conversation with a man who isn’t a family member.  But, I didn’t see many older women in the workplace.



     I did see older women at hospitals, clinics and pharmacies, but, they were usually accompanied by their husband, son or daughter.  Going out alone would be the exception for an older woman. 


     As a Western woman, I was allowed to go to the front of the line at the post office.  However, this was the only place where I was afforded any privilege because I was a woman.  The first time I went to the post office, I took my place at the back of a long line of men.  Much to my surprise, the male postal employee motioned for me to come to the front of the line so he could wait on me ahead of the men.  I was confused by his summoning and asked if he really wanted me to go to the head of the line.  Yes, he did.  



     My choice of clothing was simple – conservative and appropriate.  I was not required to wear an abaya or a hijab over my hair.   However, young girls and teenagers recognize that their method of dressing is a part of their culture.  Abayas, hijabs, veils and sheylas are fancier than they were several years ago when I first lived in Abu Dhabi.  Now the black garments have beads, colorful embroidery, and intricate patterns on the cuffs, around the bottom of the abaya and sometimes down the front and back of the long dress.

Boat Ride at Global Village, Abu Dhabi
Day at the Beach in the Middle East
        
    My time in the Middle East was very special because I became friends with many local Emirati women through my teaching of English.  I was honored to be invited into their homes for meals with their families and invited to weddings with them.  We went out shopping and to lunch.  We had a lovely time talking about our children, husbands, clothes, shoes, movies, books, travel and losing weight.  They want the same things we do – a healthy, happy family, a rich husband, a good education for themselves and their children, a good job and they want to lose those last 10 pounds!


Sunday, November 17, 2013

Atlantis Hotel, Palm Jumeirah, Dubai


Atlantis Hotel, Palm Jumeirah, Dubai






     The Atlantis Hotel in Dubai is extraordinary.  But, even more astonishing is the island on which it’s built, the Palm Jumeirah.










     The Palm Jumeirah isn’t your typical exotic island with pristine white beaches and sparkling azure water.  This island is unique because it’s an incredibly large MAN-MADE, palm tree shaped island in the Arabian Gulf built from reclaimed sea sand.  Truly an architectural wonder and one of Dubai’s most famous landmarks known as the 8th Wonder of the World.  Prime real estate with every property having desirable beachfront access and water views - spectacular villas, condos and high rise apartments.


Location, location, location...  Who said you can’t make beach front property? 

YOU CAN, if you have enough money.  It’s so mind boggling to think that we were driving on an artificial island in the Arabian Gulf.  And, la ti da, we drove all the way to the Atlantis Hotel next to a chauffeur-driven silver Rolls Royce.   

     The Atlantis, which cost 1.5 billion dollars and opened in 2008, is located on the crescent of the Palm Jumeirah situated on 113 acres.  This ocean-themed resort features “Aquaventure” – a 42-acre waterpark with the “Zigguret” Centerpiece that touts a 27.5 metre-vertical drop and “The Lost Chambers” – where you can journey through a labyrinth of chambers to experience its fascinating underwater world with over 65,000 fish. 





     So, how much are you willing to pay to have your own personal aquarium view through a large window in your hotel suite just to watch the creatures of the sea?  The price tag is hefty.  Or, you can do what Bill and I did – just gaze at the aquatic view from one of the hotel’s many unique restaurants.   


      Ali Al Marzouqi, our Emirati friend, however, took his wife, three children and two nannies for an overnight stay at the five-star Atlantis.  They had a sea view and an aquarium view – a three-bedroom suite with an enormous window looking into the giant aquarium.  They loved the luxurious rooms and their children had a great time at the waterpark.  Can you afford $2,500 per night for a suite?  But, with 1,539 rooms, you could have a less expensive stay for about $800 - $1,000 per night.  [I don't think Bill and I will be staying overnight at the Atlantis Hotel anytime soon with those prices].



     The hotel lobby reminded me of a majestic European museum graced by a 10-meter high Dale Chihuly multi-colored abstract sculpture with over 3,000 pieces of hand blown glass surrounded by a round water feature or reflection pool which looked like a fountain with a glass centerpiece. 

     What was really ironic was that Bill and I had lived in Tacoma, Washington, Dale Chihuly’s hometown and the Museum of Glass.  His distinctive, imaginative and vibrant sculptures are known worldwide.  Several bars and restaurants in Tacoma had his early art work hanging or sitting on shelves, Chihuly having given them to his friends.  


     But this Chihuly glass sculpture had graceful trumpet figures and delicate, flowing shapes reminding me of the sea anemones with intense colors of turquoise, indigo, cerulean, sea green, yellow green, scarlet, yellow, red and orange glass of various sizes traveling up as far as you could see against a ceiling of gold leaf.  I remember feeling so small standing in front of it.  Everyone wanted to capture their own image in front of this unique glass sculpture, so cameras were flashing all around us.



     The highlight of the hotel was the massive, open air aquarium inside the Atlantis.  Of all the aquariums I’ve seen, such as the Marineland in Florida, the Monterrey Aquarium, and in the Dubai Mall, this was my favorite.  I felt like I could reach out and touch the thousands of fish zipping by.  Watching over 65,000 fish, stingrays and other sea creatures swimming around the aquarium through several gigantic two-story viewing windows was such a treat.  There is also a dolphinarium with more than two dozen bottlenose dolphins flown in from the Solomon Islands. 




      You’re never far from a shopping experience in Dubai.  So, we strolled through the upscale boutiques on “The Avenues”, a 7500 sqm. retail and entertainment complex.  I did a lot of window shopping at Tiffany’s, Chopards, Harry Winston, Louis Vuitton, Hermes, Gucci and Jimmy Choo.  I just told myself that I already had enough shoes and handbags.  I also know the difference between ‘want’ and ‘need’.  So, I kept the Visa card in my wallet and just pressed my nose against the stores windows looking for something on sale!  Not a chance!