Ramadan - No Food, No Water, No Fun!

Ramadan – No Food, No Water, No Fun!



Grand Mosque, Abu Dhabi

     Ramadan Kareem!    Blessed Ramadan! 

     We just returned from having an overpriced brunch at the InterContinental in Dubai  where we sat in a darkened room behind a wall of black drapes.  It’s Ramadan…  It’s frustrating for Westerners who like to eat three meals a day, especially for me because I don’t cook much so we eat out frequently and have food delivered.  Can’t do that during Ramadan.  



Atlantis Hotel on the Palm Jumeirah, Dubai

Jumeirah Beach Hotel, Dubai

InterContinental Hotel, Dubai

   

    






     

     Ramadan began on July 21, 2012.  A time of fasting and prayer.  Long, hot, sunny days of fasting from dawn to dusk.  Muslims abstain from all food, drinks, cigarettes and unclean thoughts every day from sunrise to sunset during the 30 days of Ramadan. 

   

     Life for Westerners in the Middle East during Ramadan was no picnic either!  Westerners cannot eat or even take a drink of water in front of someone of the Islamic faith as a sign of respect.

     My Arabic women friends always prepared for Ramadan by having their homes cleaned top to bottom.  They bought new clothes, new furniture, new linens and particularly, new kitchen and culinary items including dinnerware, serving pieces and glassware.  They looked forward to Ramadan all year long and began their preparations days in advance by cooking and freezing various foods. 

 

Abayahs for the Women

     Restaurants were not open during the day, except in five-star hotels where Western guests are served.  Temporary black drapes were hung on all windows and the main eating area was always screened off from the lobby, out of respect for those fasting.  Hotels and restaurants officially open in the evening for ‘Iftar’ – the meal at sunset to break the daily fast. 

     Muslims typically break their fast with a few dates and a glass of water after which they have a large Iftar meal.  They celebrate with their family and friends, often reading from the Quran.  Each day before dawn, Muslims observe a pre-fast meal called ‘Suhoor’ at about 4:30 am, then the first prayer of the day begins. 

     I was privileged to share many Iftar meals with my Arab friends and their families.  Wonderful occasions with happy people celebrating their faith.  I sat on Haifa’s dining room floor at her family’s villa surrounded by women only.  We shared traditional Arabic food and the ladies used their hands to eat.  They were kind enough to provide eating utensils for me, as well as a cushion to sit on because marble floors are very unforgiving, even covered with rugs.    



Siham's Family Villa, Dubai



Haifa's Villa

     My husband and I often went out for elaborate Iftar meals at swanky hotels and restaurants where festive Ramadan tents were constructed on either the rooftop dining area or on the extensive grounds.  They were filled to the brim every evening with people of all nationalities and religions enjoying traditional Arabic mezze consisting of lamb, chicken, dates, juices, grilled vegetables and sweets on long buffet tables.  



Shisha Pipes

     Men and women smoked fragrant shisha pipes after dinner.  During Ramadan, the sale of alcohol in most outlets was restricted to after dusk.  In addition, no live music or dancing was allowed, so nightclubs tend to close for the entire month.  Cinemas limited daytime screenings of films.   

    
     Government offices, businesses and schools shortened their work and school hours all across the Middle East to about five hours per day.  Not a bad work schedule.  But, it was really hard to get any business done because of the shorter times. 

     Restaurants, dry cleaners, stores, etc., were open until 11:00 pm or midnight after a long afternoon break when people rested or napped.  Restaurant wait staff that we knew didn’t get home until 3:00 or 4:00 am.  As the month goes on, many Muslims sleep all afternoon and stay up long into the night and early morning. 

Abu Dhabi

     Supermarkets were open and food was sold during the day, but you obviously can't eat in public.  I usually packed my lunch and a large water bottle so I could eat during the day at work.  However, I would close the door to my office to have lunch, for both privacy and out of respect to my Muslim co-workers. 

     Westerners were also asked to avoid strong fragrances if you work closely with anyone who is fasting because the olfactory senses are more sensitive on an empty stomach.  As the Ramadan month progresses, people who are fasting become very tired and cranky because of sleep deprivation and fewer meals. 

     Children are encouraged to fast during Ramadan for as long as they can, but if they become too hungry, food is allowed.  However, by puberty they must fast all day just like their parents.  Exemptions to fasting are pregnant women, travel, illness, older age and women who are breast feeding.  Those who are ill or traveling are obliged to make up the days missed later on.   



Quran on Wood Holder - Jumeirah Mosque



Grand Mosque, Abu Dhabi

   

   Eid Mubarak!

     Happy Eid!   

    
    


     At the end of Ramadan, there is a three-four day holiday called Eid-ul-Fitr, the Festivity of Breaking the Fast.  All businesses and schools are closed for Eid. 

     Conservative Muslims celebrate the end of Ramadan with a sacrificial lamb slaughtered in three parts:  one part for the needy or poor people; one part for your friends; and the last part for you and your family.  There are special slaughterhouses to have this done or some people do it themselves at home.  Feeding the poor and homeless is very important for all Muslims, particularly at the end of Ramadan.     

     My Arabic friends told me that they often visit the graves of loved ones on the morning of the last day of Ramadan before sunrise and take flowers and greenery.  They celebrate the lives of their deceased ones and pray to Muhammad the Prophet.  The Call to Prayer is heard five times a day throughout the city over all mosque loud speakers whether or not it is Ramadan.  Typically, men and women attend separate mosques, but most females pray at home.



Jumeirah Mosque, Dubai

     The timing of Ramadan is not fixed in terms of the western calendar, but each year it occurs about 11 days earlier than the previous year with the start date depending on the sighting of the moon. 

     Therefore, Islamic holidays are usually confirmed less than 24 hours in advance.  

   
     Most companies send emails to employees the day before notifying them of the confirmed holiday date.  

    I respect my Muslim friends for their faithful practice of fasting and praying during Ramadan.  I can barely manage to function if I miss breakfast, lunch or dinner, much less going without food or water for 10-12 hours every day for 30 days.  From my heart to their hearts, Peace to all of my Muslim friends during this holy month of Ramadan.     

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Sir Bani Yas Island

Sir Bani Yas Island, Abu Dhabi

 

    A true ‘Desert Island’ off the coast of Abu Dhabi.  Only one luxurious, intimate five-star hotel on the island for our romantic weekend.  Cheetahs, striped hyenas, Arabian oryxes, Arabian gazelles, sand gazelles, ostriches, giraffes...  The white hot desert, the sharp naked mountains, the cobalt blue Arabian Gulf and glittering white beaches...  All on a ‘Desert Island’.  Very restricted and utterly magical. 

   
An unusual, yet fascinating flight on an old Emirati Air Force C130 cargo plane which had been outfitted with seats.  No flight attendants, no beverage service, no pretzels or restrooms for the two-hour flight.  Our departure was even rather special as we flew out of Abu Dhabi’s private Executive Airport – no cameras or photographs allowed.  When was the last time your pilot opened the back of the plane as you taxied to a stop?  Felt like the blast of a huge furnace when the cargo door opened.   


    As we were cruising at a very low altitude over the Arabian Gulf, the crew invited some of us into the cockpit for the most spectacular view.  I felt like I could reach out to touch the clouds and the whitecaps below.  Looking at the Gulf from the pilot's perspective through the square windows which encircled the plane’s nose down to the floor was almost like flying the plane myself. 

    Cool moist towels, ice water, coffee, tea and an assortment of fruit and dates welcomed us upon our arrival at the Desert Island Resort and Spa.  A long, winding sandy road from the tiny airport landing strip on the north side of the property snaked around to the desert hotel which was the only structure on the southern coast of the island. 

    Kayaking through the quiet, peaceful mangroves, gliding across the calm water, looking at unusual birds and fish became my late afternoon activity.  I paddled a long, blue kayak along with three other guests and our guide.  No sounds, no cars, no honking horns, no airplanes and no talking.  Silence, total silence, except for the birds flying overhead.  What a difference that two-hour flight had made – Abu Dhabi chaos, traffic and noise vs. the solitude of this private island in the Arabian Gulf. 

   
 But, the landscape changed dramatically when Bill and I hopped into the safari Range Rover with the pop-up roof along with several others to enjoy the Nature and Wildlife Drive in the Wildlife Park.  What a scenic outing we had traversing the hills and sandy terrain on the island.  Incredible seeing all of the animals so close and personal.  An ostrich came right up to the jeep, stuck her head through the window and tried to snatch someone's Rolex because she likes shiny objects!  A cheetah prowled about 50 feet from the jeep and that was really frightening!  He was searching for his dinner.  Fortunately, we weren't on the menu.  

  

    The native Arabian Oryxes and Sand Gazelles were hauntingly beautiful standing tall and proud with long horns jutting from their heads.  Sharp, piercing eyes watched as we drove past, but they did not appear to be afraid.  They blended into the desert landscape with their soft tan, beige, dark caramel coloring. 

    The island is now a breeding reserve for some of the rarest gazelle and antelope species.  It’s a natural habitat for both indigenous and introduced wildlife with several thousand free-roaming animals native to the Arabian Peninsula on the island. 

    Sir Bani Yas Island was originally the private island of the late Sheikh Zayed Bin Sultan Al Nahyan, President of the United Arab Emirates, for nearly 30 years.  There are three private palaces on the island:  one for the Sheikh, one for the Sheikh’s wives and visiting women, and the third palace to entertain guests. 

    The island is one of the largest in the Emirate of Abu Dhabi and only recently, the first island to welcome tourists.  Desert Islands Resort and Spa by Anantara is the only hotel on the property with just 64 luxurious rooms.  Reservations are nearly impossible to obtain because it is booked over a year in advance and access to the island is strictly limited to hotel guests.  Transportation to the island is, of course, only by boat or plane.

    However, there is one other interesting and historic ‘property’ on the island.  Ruins of a 1,400-year-old monastery that is the only pre-Islamic Christian site in the region have been found.  It dates back to around 600 AD and was built by a community of 30 to 40 monks.  The monastery was established by pilgrims travelling from India. 

    The remains, which also include a church, chapel and tower, were unearthed in 1992 during an archaeological study.  Excavations will continue as visitors come to the site.  Unfortunately, we did not have an opportunity to visit the historic area.  But, you can read more about this monastery at: 

 http://www.dailymail.co.uk/news/article-1338060/Pre-Islamic-Christian-monastery-Abu-Dhabi-opens-public.html#ixzz1yYlqOPZZ

    I walked on soft, white beaches with crashing waves, hiked through a solitary desert, and enjoyed a private, desert island in the Arabian Gulf.  What a privilege and rare treat!  I continue to be amazed at the incredible natural landscapes that the UAE has to offer – tall, red sand dunes, brilliant beaches and an occasional green oasis.  The Middle East I know is not just sleek high-rise buildings, or glitz and glamour, but so much more. 

Camels and Camel Racing

Camels and Camel Racing

    My first camel ride was on my birthday during a Desert Safari with my husband.  The April moon was full and bright.  I remember that my camel had a strange, uneven loping gait as he walked in the sand.  He wore a muzzle over his nose and mouth so he couldn’t bite me.  However, the weirdest movements were when he got up from his kneeling position with me on his back and then again when his trainer had him get down at the end of the ride to let me off.  It felt like I was being pitched over his head and then thrown backwards. 

     I sat high off the ground on my very tall camel as we walked in the desert.  What I loved most though was the shadow that the camel and I cast on the sand dunes because of the full moon.  I felt like I was part of the Arabian Nights.  What a ride!  What a night! 

Barbara and Rebecca - Desert Safari, Dubai

  
    But, one of the most memorable experiences was going Dune Bashing, then visiting the Camel Farm in the desert on this same birthday Desert Safari.  Our driver, Ali, drove us out of Dubai into the desert, stopping at a service station to let air out of the SUV’s tires so we could drive in the deep, fine sand.  We finally went off-road into the dark red sand and started climbing up the dunes. 

    Driving up, up, up the sand dunes.  Then, at the top of the dune, Ali,  stopped and literally let the SUV slide sideways down the dune.  The dunes were much higher than I thought they would be, so our view was incredible each time we reached the top ridge.  Our driver would drive as fast as he could up, up, up and over the top of the dune with the SUV leaving the ground!  We were airborne!  Hold on tight!!!  We went up and down, dune after dune, several times, laughing so hard that we had tears rolling down our faces. 

     After the dune bashing, Ali drove to the camel farm.  We jumped out of the Range Rover literally moments after the birth of a camel that was born on my birthday!  We watched the mother camel as she cleaned her baby, nuzzled him, and encouraged him to stand.   He looked like he was dead because he wasn’t moving at all.  He was grey, very skinny, wobbly long neck and tiny body. 

Mama Camel and new baby camel on ground

    Finally, after about 45 minutes, the baby camel staggered onto his four unsteady, scrawny legs.  He fell over immediately, but his mama didn’t give up.  She continued to lie down beside him, licked him all over, sniffed him, and just took care of him.  After another 15 minutes, he was standing on his own and beginning to nurse his mother. 

     I loved the camel caretaker, Mohammed, who wore a red/white checkered headpiece and just seemed to belong to the desert.  He was very dark skinned, smiled a lot and was very proud of the mama camel and her new baby.  Our guide translated our conversation. 

    Mohammed said he would name the baby camel after me because he was born on my birthday!  I now have a camel named after me living in the desert outside of Dubai.

     Camels everywhere!  One hump or two: while living in the United Arab Emirates, I saw only the Dromedary camel or the Arabian camel, which is a large, even-toed ungulate with one hump on its back and is native to this country.  The two-hump camel or the Bactrian camel is not native to this part of the Arabian Gulf. 

    In Wisconsin, drivers often hit deer on the highways resulting in a lot of damage to our cars and the deer.  Unfortunately, in the UAE, every camel has an owner; so, if you hit a camel and are caught, you will most likely pay a large fine or go to jail.  Camels are usually fenced in the desert, but many roam freely along the roads.

Camels on road to Fujairah

    I learned that camels are raised for racing and for their beauty, which I found odd because I didn’t find them particularly pretty.  The Sheikhs own most of them with the average price of a camel being $100,000 to $1,000,000. 

    The former president of the UAE, Sheikh Zayed, endorsed camel racing because it provided work and financial support for the camel caretakers.  He owned a personal stable of about 14,000 camels and 9,000 workers for their upkeep.

    At a broad, sandy camel racetrack, camels stand in groups of four and five.  The sight of the huge beasts next to the trainers and handlers in their long white robes and headdresses contrasted sharply with the Dubai skyscrapers, which gleamed in the distance like a desert mirage. The lifting of the large, multi-strand barrier signified the beginning of the race.   

    Suddenly, the trainers leapt into waiting jeeps and sped off on a road parallel to the racetrack.  They left behind the handlers who clap and whistle, prompting the camels to start a clumsy gallop down the track as a training run for an upcoming race.  There are no riders perched on the camel’s humps.  Instead, the cylindrical robot jockeys are strapped to their saddles.

    However, there are still some kinks to work out.  For one, camels can be uncooperative.  During the training run, one camel – robot in tow – broke off from the pack and sprinted the wrong way down the track.  Several screaming handlers chased after the runaway camel, running barefoot in the sand.

   Camel racing season is from October through April on Thursdays and Fridays (their weekend) because the weather is now cooling down.  Two races are the norm, with the morning race beginning at 7:30 am and the afternoon race at 2:30 pm.

    I saw many more racetracks since first living in Abu Dhabi in 2004.  Now, the UAE has 15 racetracks across the country with spacious, well-kept stadiums for viewers. They are located on city outskirts, complete with rest tents, connecting roads, electricity, water, telephone lines, equipment for live television and radio broadcasts, a team of doctors, stand-by ambulances, and print transmission capabilities.

    Race distances vary between 4 to 10 kilometers and may include 15 to 70 camels or more. The camels run about 40 kilometers per hour and learn to race at two years of age.  Cameras are not permitted at the racetracks.  However, binoculars are necessary if you really want to see the races. 

    At the Nad al Sheba racetrack the morning races consist primarily of camels owned by Sheikhs, whereas the afternoon races are open to everyone. Sheikhs have been known to buy camels from owners who won the afternoon races, offering large sums of money to acquire the victorious camel.

    Currently, there are approximately 14,000 active racing camels in the UAE, which require large numbers of people to maintain them and keep them in top condition. The workers typically come from Pakistan and Oman.  Many trainers take their camels and race in other countries, such as Qatar, which have extended racing seasons beyond the UAE season.

    But, the most disturbing part of camel racing was the past practice of having young boys as camel jockeys.  These tiny little boys were only six or seven years old, weighing about 20 kilograms (44 pounds) so as not to be too heavy on the camel. The boys, usually from Pakistan and Bangladesh, were secured to the saddles with Velcro or tied on, often resulting in injuries to the little guys.  This practice was condemned by human rights groups and became an international issue, in addition to the trafficking of child jockeys.

    To address the problem, the UAE government issued a ban on child jockeys who are less than 15 years of age and weigh less than 45 kilos.  Camel jockeys must carry government issued ID cards, which can be acquired after passing examinations by specially appointed doctors to ensure that the child is of racing age and has not been taken from a foreign country by owners claiming to be parents.

Robot Jockey Riding in Camel Race

    The good news is that now ‘robot jockeys’ are transforming the traditional sport.  At the Gold Camel Sports Equipment Trading Shop on the edge of Dubai, the robot jockeys sell for about $500 each in a variety of colors.  A wireless receiver activates when the trainer presses a button on a plastic key chain.  Then the robot jockey’s single arm spins furiously, whipping the air and the camel with the riding crop.  The robot jockeys have also improved race times dramatically because the 10-pound robots are much lighter than the little boys are.

Robot Jockeys riding in the Camel Race

    Betting on the races is illegal in the UAE, but winners receive different prizes, many times in the form of luxury cars.  Very successful racing camels are worth millions of dollars and the most coveted prize is winning the King’s Cup in Dubai.

    Nad al Sheba Camel Racetrack, outside of Dubai, fills to the brim every Thursday and Friday during the winter months.  Camel races are also held in most of the other six emirates such as Sharjah, Ajman, Ras al-Khaimah, Fujairah, and Umm al-Qaiwain.

Camels at Global Village, Dubai

    How about an unusual camel event?  Camel Beauty Pageants!  I thought it was a joke the first time I heard it on the radio.  Then, I read about it in the newspaper. 

    Yes, the Camel Beauty Pageant is held each December during the Al Dhafrah Camel Festival in Abu Dhabi, when beautifully adorned camels strut their stuff for prize money, which in 2011 totaled Dhs 42 million ($11,444,141).  The first prizewinners in the native Asayel and Majahim categories (for dark-skinned Saudi Arabian camels) each took home Dhs 1 million ($272,479). 

    Go figure…  I have seen and heard everything now! 

Barbara riding camel at Global Village

Global Village, Dubai

               
    

Camels on Emirates Palace Beach, Abu Dhabi

Barbara and Rebecca riding a camel - Desert Safari

Camel grazing on the side of the road

 

Attributed in part to:  www.dubaicity.com/What_to_do_in_dubai/camel-racing... and  www.timeoutdubai.com/sportandoutdoor/features

Shopping in Dubai and Abu Dhabi

Dubai Mall

 

     My shopping cart was filled with new lamps, household items, towels and rugs from IKEA, a spectacular red top and matching sweater from Topshop, Paris Gallery perfume for me and cologne for Bill; three best sellers from the Al-Jazeer Bookstore, and a new pair of sandals from Aldo.  

     Bill and I had lunch at Fuddruckers on this hot Friday afternoon at the beginning of our weekend which was Thursday and Friday at that time.  Then, as usual, we went shopping in the Marina Mall.  Now it was time to do the dreaded grocery shopping at Carrefour (French discount store chain). 

Barb at Burj Khalifa

     So, I pushed my overflowing shopping cart along side other full carts containing bags from all of the mall stores.  Looked like a shopping cart parking lot, but not very organized.  

    Bill and I turned away, left the cart and walked inside the grocery store.  Yes, we did!  

Dubai Mall

     We abandoned our cart full of goodies which we had bought and paid for without so much as a backward glance.  No ticket to claim it upon our return, just a nod to one of the Carrefour mall guards who stood behind a long counter nearby. 

Burj Khalifa, Dubai

     

     Grocery shopping was always a challenge for me in the Middle East.  People from all cultures crammed every aisle with sideways carts, children running around, food labels that I couldn’t read because they were mostly in Arabic.  

    Strange smells from the meat and fish departments, as well as lots of pungent, unpleasant body odor.  With temperatures in the 110’–120’ range, it’s hard to keep that antiperspirant deodorant working.    

Dubai Mall

       

     Whew…  Grocery shopping completed for the week.  So, we left Carrefour to unload the groceries in our car.  

    Then, we and went back into the mall to get our first shopping cart.  Was the trolley still there?  Was everything still in it?  Had anyone taken any of our new stuff?   

     No!  Not one single thing was missing.  The cart was still in the exact same place.  People continued to leave their carts and others pushed their trolleys (British term for shopping cart) away.  

     Can you imagine?  Who knew?  I cannot think of another place in the world where I would have left my shopping cart without hesitating.  However, Middle East culture is such that stealing is simply not an issue.  No one steals!

Burj Khalifa

     People in the Middle East have respect for others and for their possessions.  The punishment is harsh and severe for theft and other crimes.  

    So, there is very little crime.  However, honestly I was really concerned about my purchases the first time I walked away from my cart. 

Festival City, Abu Dhabi

 

    Bill and I pushed our carts to the parking lot with covered car spaces to unload our things.  

    Once in the parking lot, service workers always help load your car and you tip them.  

    Then, they take the shopping carts back into the mall.  

     Another interesting part of mall shopping is that there are always young men in parking lots and garages who will wash your car for a small fee while you shop.

Dubai Mall

    

     The Middle East IS truly the shopping Mecca of the world!  There is the indoor Ski Slope in the Mall of the Emirates in Dubai.  Why?  Because they can…  How would you like to pay that electric bill?  

     The sledding, skiing and snowman making is open year round for a winter experience in the desert!  Big kids, little kids and adults put on rental winter parkas, gloves and boots to enjoy the sports. 

Dubai Skyline & the Burj Khalifa

     Then, there is the Dubai Mall, the world’s largest shopping mall, which houses the world’s largest aquarium, plus an indoor ice skating rink contributing to the shopper’s delight.  

    The Burj Khalifa is connected to the Dubai Mall.  

    There is a ticket booth where you can buy tickets to go to the very top of the Burj Khalifa!  Good luck with that!  

Sold Out!  Again... 

Dubai Mall - Aquarium

    

Festival City, Abu Dhabi

     Don’t you think it would be difficult to ice skate with floor length clothing?  Well, the men in their ankle length white dishdashas and women in their floor length black abayahs give it their best shot and everyone has a blast skating around the rink.

Ice Rink, Dubai Mall

Burj Khalifa

     There is an outdoor souk (market) connected to the Dubai Mall and the famous lagoon with an incredible water fountain show complete with a music and light show every 30 minutes. 

     Towering over the Dubai Mall is the Burj Khalifa, the world’s tallest building (at that time) standing at 2,723 feet high with 163 floors.  

    There is a boutique hotel on the lower floors.  Then, condo apartments going up to the first observation deck on the 124th floor.  

    We were living in Dubai when it opened in January 2010!  

     Not only that, but I drove past it on my daily commute to work!  Awesome sight! 

Burj al Arab

    I also drove past the iconic Burj al Arab on my drive to and from work.

Burj al Arab on Island

    The Burj al Arab is highly regarded as one of the most luxurious hotels in the world.  

    

    There are 28 double-storey floors with 202 suites, nine restaurants, a spa, private beach, three swimming pools and a helipad.  

    The Burj is a five-star hotel built on a man-made island.  The iconic sail shape of the hotel isn't just for show.  It was specially built so the shadow would not obstruct beach goers wanting all of the sun.  

Barb & the Burj al Arab

    Arrive in style courtesy of a chauffeur driven Rolls Royce.  Available to all guests, the hotel has a fleet of the most legendary cars in the world which guarantees that they will never run short.

    You'll sleep like a baby at the Burj al Arab as there are 17 types of pillows for guests to choose from on the extensive 'Pillow Menu'.  Can you imagine?

    Throughout the entire hotel, 19,250 square feet of 240 carat gold leaf has been used.  

Burj al Arab, Dubai

    I've enjoyed window-shopping on Rodeo Drive in Beverly Hills, walked the 'Magnificent Mile' in Chicago, and of course, loved the trendy boutiques in SoHo, New York City.  

Festival City Shopping

     However, shopping in Dubai and Abu Dhabi is a true 'Feast for the Eyes', as well as a feast for each of our senses, especially the nose.  My favorites were the elegant shops featuring aromatic incense wafting through the air and the Arabian oud oil, as well as several Paris Perfume Galleries which dominated every mall. 

Fountains at Dubai Mall 

    

    There is a definite ‘mall culture’  in Dubai and Abu Dhabi.  

    Everyone here loves to shop.  

    The malls cater to everyone's taste from small souvenirs, normal everyday clothing to high fashion and couture shops!  

     

    Malls are places to meet your friends and family, have coffee, eat, and shop.  In addition to the big malls, there are small specialty shops and souks in every neighborhood.

    Some shopping malls have a 'carnival' like atmosphere such as Festival City.  There are also several lovely small canals for shoppers to ride in boats.  

Festival City, Abu Dhabi

     

     Emirati shopping is done in groups - segregated groups!  

    You will often see a group of men in their white floor length dishdashas shopping together. 

     

     Women shop in even bigger groups gliding along in their black abayahs sweeping behind them.  Husbands and wives often shop together with all of their children.  

     However, you will rarely see anyone holding hands.  Absolutely no public displays of affection!  And, to my surprise, there are very few older women shopping.  I didn't see many women over the age of 40 hardly ever in stores.  Where were they?  I still love to shop and I'm over 40.

     Unfortunately, the culture in the Middle East is totally patriarchal. 

    Therefore, the daughters or the daughters-in-law (who live with the husband's family) typically do all of the grocery shopping and run the other household errands.  

    The 'older' women stay home.  Go figure.        

     Most malls stay open until midnight.  So, late at night, the many coffee shops are filled with large groups of men in their crisp white, flowing dishdashas sitting together drinking coffee, smoking and having conversations with each other or texting/talking on their cell phones. 

Dubai Mall

     The men go everywhere together because the Middle East is also a segregated society.  As a woman, you are not allowed to go out with a man alone unless he is your father, brother or husband.  The women also go out in large groups for lunch, shopping or coffee.

     When Emirati men meet one another, they greet each other by touching NOSES with the other men and making the 'kiss' sound.  This is their cultural way to say 'Hello'.  They wear very expensive aromatic oils or cologne and always smell very, very good.  So, why not?  

Barb at Textile Souk, Dubai

     No Walmart here, but we had Carrefour stores with household items, clothing, electronics, and groceries. 

    We also had IKEA, Marks & Spencer, the Marina Mall, Abu Dhabi Mall, and several Cooperatives. 

    

     Clothing, handbags, and shoes were reasonably priced, but appliances and electronics were quite expensive. 

     I had quite the challenge shopping and taking taxis as I set up our flats in both Abu Dhabi and Dubai.  YOU try putting an ironing board, broom, mop, bucket and other household items in the trunk and back seat of a taxi.  

    I basically started from scratch twice.  So many trips to and from Carrefour in smelly taxis buying the basics to furnish an apartment.      

     Abu Dhabi in 2004.  We lived there for two years.  Back to the USA from the Middle East. 

    Then, we returned to the United Arab Emirates for three more years.  But this time to Dubai in 2008 - 2011  Now, I was a seasoned shopper.  I knew what to buy and what not to buy.  

     So, do you remember your first dormitory, apartment or house?  What did you need?  Right, everything!  Towels, sheets, pillows, lamps, kitchen gadgets, plates, soap, detergents, etc.  But, most importantly, how many wine glasses will I need? 

  

     After shopping at Carrefour, I then had to somehow hold the elevator in my building and put everything inside.  Plus, the 'Hold' button didn't always work.  Some trick trying to get our household goods out of the elevator and into the apartment without being an octopus! 

     It was also tough trying to decipher labels in Arabic stating which bottle was dishwasher detergent, rinse agent, washer detergent, etc.  Frequently, I resorted to looking at the picture on the bottles.  

    Needless to say, I spent quite some time in the grocer's aisles.  Labels were sometimes in German, French, or English. 

     Business hours were odd, especially for smaller shops and government offices.  Businesses open at 9:00 am and then close at 1:00 pm for the afternoon.  

    People go home, have lunch with their family, and take a nap in the heat of the day even though everything is air-conditioned.  Then stores and businesses re-open at 4:00 or 5:00 pm and remain open until 8:00 or 9:00 pm or later.  Many workers have a split workday.

Jumeirah Beach Walk, Dubai

     Nearly all store clerks worked 12-hour days.  All restaurant wait staff also worked 12-hour days with only one day off each week.  Tough schedule.  

    During Ramadan, everything is open until midnight or 1:00 am so everyone can eat and get their shopping done after sunset. 

    Ramadan is a holy month of worship, study of the Quran, prayer and fasting.   

     We had appliances and furniture delivered at 10:00 pm.  We were exhausted just waiting for them to arrive, install the appliances, and/or put the furniture together.  The workmen would be at our apartment until 2:00 or 3:00 am.  Whew...     

     What do the Emiratis buy?  Status symbols…  Name brands…  High tech gadgets and electronics...  Big SUVs, high-end luxury cars and fast sports cars.  The latest iPhones, iPads, laptops, etc.  

     Women love beautiful, sexy lingerie!  Stylish designer clothes to wear UNDER their abayahs, but only to be seen by their friends in the privacy of homes.  Anything that is flashy and expensive.  Designer handbags, awesome sandals and watches.  Pricey perfume.  The best makeup.      

Armani Caffe, Dubai Mall

   

     Men buy expensive pens with matching cuff links and sandals.  However, watches are their favorite items to buy.  Expensive, large faced, extravagant, flashy name brand watches.  Rolex, Cartier, Tiffany, Gucci, Tag Heuer, Mont Blanc… 

     Most Emiratis have several watches.  Timepieces are an enormous status symbol because this is the one piece of jewelry that can be publicly displayed on both men and women.   

     Think about that…  The men wear their long sleeve dishdashas and the women wear their long sleeve abayahs.  Only their hands and wrists are on display for whatever fashion statement they chose to make.  

    Women also now wear enormous rings, both costume and real, unless they are wearing long black gloves. 

Emirates Palace Beach, Abu Dhabi

     The newer dishdashas have cuffed sleeves, so cuff links are now an important fashion statement and yet another status symbol.  Men select matching cuff links, watches, and pens to sport in the breast pocket of their dishdashas.  

    The price tags on these items are insane.  Every designer has a line of watches, pens, and cuff links. 

Couture Avenue, Dubai Mall

     

    Other status symbols include designer handbags, shoes, sandals, and, of course cars, especially Jaguars, Ferraris and Maseratis.  

     Handbags are very hot items in Dubai because those and shoes are the only other items which can be publicly displayed on women.  So, nothing but the very best for these ladies! 
    
     Handbags and shoes are Louis Vuitton, Jimmy Choo, Manolo Blahnik,  Gucci, Yves St. Laurent, Prada, Chanel, Fendi, Dior, Armani, Donna Karan, Ralph Lauren…  But, if not designer bags, they are colorful, large, and expensive. 

     I was surprised to see numerous lingerie shops in a country where women cover nearly every inch of their body in black.  The storefront window mannequins were scantily clad in sexy underwear and lounge wear for everyone to see.  

    However, inside the store, the shoppers were women.  Victoria’s Secret has now opened stores in Dubai and Abu Dhabi.

     Shoe stores are everywhere!  Imelda Marcos had thousands of shoes, but women in Dubai would rival her shoe closet.  They can’t begin to count all of their shoes.  I can honestly say that I have never seen so many shoe stores in my life.  

     Middle Eastern women wear the most incredibly beautiful leather sandals with rhinestones, bright colors, and stiletto heels.  Their feet are impeccably pedicured even though you can barely see their toes because of the long, black abayah.  However, more conservative women do not paint their toenails.

     I priced a pair of sandals with a few rhinestones at the Mall of the Emirates.  They were made exactly like 'Flip Flops' with the little strap between the toes.  Not much of a sandal and not at all comfortable. YIKES, the price tag was AED 4,490, which converts to $1,247.  

     No kidding...  I looked at several other sandals and they were all similarly priced.  And this is a shoe that doesn't even cover your entire foot!

Jimmy Choo Shoe Store, Dubai Mall

      Men have manicures and pedicures. 

    No one wants ugly toenails when you wear sandals daily. 

    Emirati men all wear sandals with their traditional dishdasha.  

     These men go to their barber frequently to have haircuts and beards trimmed to look like they have a 5 o'clock shadow.  Very attractive look!

     And last, the Emiratis all smell wonderful.  They use oud (very expensive aromatic oil) and perfume lavishly.  When they walk past you, the fragrance is incredibly delightful. 

     The 'Knock Off' designer handbags - the 'Black Market' of shopping paradise!  I had heard about this secret shopping area and I wanted the adventure of finding the hidden stores in the Al Karama district that sell designer handbags at rock bottom, bargain basement, discount prices. 

    It's all about the hunt!  Right? 

     The adventure begins...  I took a taxi to this unfamiliar section of Dubai  because a friend told me that was where the 'knock off' handbags were discreetly sold.  

    But, when the taxi dropped me off, the Al Karama Market was just a very old, dilapidated building with only smelly meat, fish, and produce shops.  Wait, what?   

     This didn’t look right to me.  Where were the handbag stores?  So, I walked out of the market, opened my umbrella to block the sun, but that didn't stop the 110’ heat and humidity.

     Drenched with sweat, I walked down several streets looking for handbag stores.  Finally, I found some.  I browsed around, then casually mentioned to one of the male clerks that I was looking for a 'knock off' Louis Vuitton or Yves St. Laurent bag. 

    He said that they didn’t have any, that they weren’t able to get them or sell them.  This wasn’t the answer I was looking for.  So I continued to walk around the store, waiting and stalling.

Gold Souk, Dubai Mall

    Eventually, the man came back, carefully looked me over, and then told me to follow him.  

    We walked out of the store through a back door going down a hot, dirty street past the stinking Al Karama Fish and Meat Market.  

    We kept walking another few blocks in the blazing Dubai heat.  

     Finally, we went into a building, walked up a large, wide flight of marble stairs, down a dark hallway stopping at a locked door.  He unlocked the door at the bottom and at the top, opened it, motioning for me to come inside.  

    Once we were safely inside the room, he locked us in!  There was another young man in there behind a counter. 

 Shopping for Designer Bags 

     As my eyes adjusted to the light in the room, I feasted my eyes on beautiful, leather handbags, wallets, scarves, and belts.  But, I did not see any Louis Vuitton bags.  So, I asked him about those.  

     He gave me a strange look, but produced a key that opened YET another door to a hidden room.  Even that door was camouflaged behind shelves with handbags on them. 

Blue Souk, Sharjah

     Yes!  Score!  The magic room of counterfeit Louis Vuitton and Yves St. Laurent heaven!  They were everywhere. 

    Large totes, small bags, carry-on luggage, evening bags, makeup bags, wallets of all sizes, all in signature colors and styles.  

     I hit the jackpot!  I didn’t know where to start looking.  Every type and style, all with the fabulous logos. 

     I began trying shoulder bags on to see how they looked.  Finally, I selected a classic dark brown shoulder tote with the light brown logo and cream-colored straps.  

    Then, I fell in love with a light cream-colored bag with the distinct checkered pattern.  I bought wallets for friends and family.  And, I could not resist the small, shiny black Louis Vuitton evening bags.

Dubai Aquarium, Dubai Mall

     

     As I bargained the price down and paid, the shopkeeper, Jafeer, picked up a lovely Louis Vuitton compact.  He made a big presentation of giving it to me as a gift!  What a sweet gesture.  He told me that I was his first customer of the day and he liked me. 

     Crazy adventure!  Traipsing down the street with a complete stranger into a building and into a locked room searching for the ‘designer knock off’ world…  No one knew where I was or with whom.  However, I always felt safe, no real fear at all.  

     I trusted these people because my girlfriends had told me about this section of Dubai and this way of doing business.  Fast forward... Now the police have begun to crack down on these shop owners.  The result is that designer handbags are not readily available. 

     Thrilled with my bargains, I left the store.  The cost?  About 700 Dirhams for all of the LV leather goods which equals about $190 for two great LV handbags, the elegant evening bags, two wallets and of course, the compact. 

     Shopping in the Middle East…  Always an adventure! 

Corniche, Abu Dhabi

Shisha Pipes, Madinat Jumeirah, Dubai