Shopping in Dubai and Abu Dhabi

Dubai Mall

 

     My shopping cart was filled with new lamps, household items, towels and rugs from IKEA, a spectacular red top and matching sweater from Topshop, Paris Gallery perfume for me and cologne for Bill; three best sellers from the Al-Jazeer Bookstore, and a new pair of sandals from Aldo.  

     Bill and I had lunch at Fuddruckers on this hot Friday afternoon at the beginning of our weekend which was Thursday and Friday at that time.  Then, as usual, we went shopping in the Marina Mall.  Now it was time to do the dreaded grocery shopping at Carrefour (French discount store chain). 

Barb at Burj Khalifa

     So, I pushed my overflowing shopping cart along side other full carts containing bags from all of the mall stores.  Looked like a shopping cart parking lot, but not very organized.  

    Bill and I turned away, left the cart and walked inside the grocery store.  Yes, we did!  

Dubai Mall

     We abandoned our cart full of goodies which we had bought and paid for without so much as a backward glance.  No ticket to claim it upon our return, just a nod to one of the Carrefour mall guards who stood behind a long counter nearby. 

Burj Khalifa, Dubai

     

     Grocery shopping was always a challenge for me in the Middle East.  People from all cultures crammed every aisle with sideways carts, children running around, food labels that I couldn’t read because they were mostly in Arabic.  

    Strange smells from the meat and fish departments, as well as lots of pungent, unpleasant body odor.  With temperatures in the 110’–120’ range, it’s hard to keep that antiperspirant deodorant working.    

Dubai Mall

       

     Whew…  Grocery shopping completed for the week.  So, we left Carrefour to unload the groceries in our car.  

    Then, we and went back into the mall to get our first shopping cart.  Was the trolley still there?  Was everything still in it?  Had anyone taken any of our new stuff?   

     No!  Not one single thing was missing.  The cart was still in the exact same place.  People continued to leave their carts and others pushed their trolleys (British term for shopping cart) away.  

     Can you imagine?  Who knew?  I cannot think of another place in the world where I would have left my shopping cart without hesitating.  However, Middle East culture is such that stealing is simply not an issue.  No one steals!

Burj Khalifa

     People in the Middle East have respect for others and for their possessions.  The punishment is harsh and severe for theft and other crimes.  

    So, there is very little crime.  However, honestly I was really concerned about my purchases the first time I walked away from my cart. 

Festival City, Abu Dhabi

 

    Bill and I pushed our carts to the parking lot with covered car spaces to unload our things.  

    Once in the parking lot, service workers always help load your car and you tip them.  

    Then, they take the shopping carts back into the mall.  

     Another interesting part of mall shopping is that there are always young men in parking lots and garages who will wash your car for a small fee while you shop.

Dubai Mall

    

     The Middle East IS truly the shopping Mecca of the world!  There is the indoor Ski Slope in the Mall of the Emirates in Dubai.  Why?  Because they can…  How would you like to pay that electric bill?  

     The sledding, skiing and snowman making is open year round for a winter experience in the desert!  Big kids, little kids and adults put on rental winter parkas, gloves and boots to enjoy the sports. 

Dubai Skyline & the Burj Khalifa

     Then, there is the Dubai Mall, the world’s largest shopping mall, which houses the world’s largest aquarium, plus an indoor ice skating rink contributing to the shopper’s delight.  

    The Burj Khalifa is connected to the Dubai Mall.  

    There is a ticket booth where you can buy tickets to go to the very top of the Burj Khalifa!  Good luck with that!  

Sold Out!  Again... 

Dubai Mall - Aquarium

    

Festival City, Abu Dhabi

     Don’t you think it would be difficult to ice skate with floor length clothing?  Well, the men in their ankle length white dishdashas and women in their floor length black abayahs give it their best shot and everyone has a blast skating around the rink.

Ice Rink, Dubai Mall

Burj Khalifa

     There is an outdoor souk (market) connected to the Dubai Mall and the famous lagoon with an incredible water fountain show complete with a music and light show every 30 minutes. 

     Towering over the Dubai Mall is the Burj Khalifa, the world’s tallest building (at that time) standing at 2,723 feet high with 163 floors.  

    There is a boutique hotel on the lower floors.  Then, condo apartments going up to the first observation deck on the 124th floor.  

    We were living in Dubai when it opened in January 2010!  

     Not only that, but I drove past it on my daily commute to work!  Awesome sight! 

Burj al Arab

    I also drove past the iconic Burj al Arab on my drive to and from work.

Burj al Arab on Island

    The Burj al Arab is highly regarded as one of the most luxurious hotels in the world.  

    

    There are 28 double-storey floors with 202 suites, nine restaurants, a spa, private beach, three swimming pools and a helipad.  

    The Burj is a five-star hotel built on a man-made island.  The iconic sail shape of the hotel isn't just for show.  It was specially built so the shadow would not obstruct beach goers wanting all of the sun.  

Barb & the Burj al Arab

    Arrive in style courtesy of a chauffeur driven Rolls Royce.  Available to all guests, the hotel has a fleet of the most legendary cars in the world which guarantees that they will never run short.

    You'll sleep like a baby at the Burj al Arab as there are 17 types of pillows for guests to choose from on the extensive 'Pillow Menu'.  Can you imagine?

    Throughout the entire hotel, 19,250 square feet of 240 carat gold leaf has been used.  

Burj al Arab, Dubai

    I've enjoyed window-shopping on Rodeo Drive in Beverly Hills, walked the 'Magnificent Mile' in Chicago, and of course, loved the trendy boutiques in SoHo, New York City.  

Festival City Shopping

     However, shopping in Dubai and Abu Dhabi is a true 'Feast for the Eyes', as well as a feast for each of our senses, especially the nose.  My favorites were the elegant shops featuring aromatic incense wafting through the air and the Arabian oud oil, as well as several Paris Perfume Galleries which dominated every mall. 

Fountains at Dubai Mall 

    

    There is a definite ‘mall culture’  in Dubai and Abu Dhabi.  

    Everyone here loves to shop.  

    The malls cater to everyone's taste from small souvenirs, normal everyday clothing to high fashion and couture shops!  

     

    Malls are places to meet your friends and family, have coffee, eat, and shop.  In addition to the big malls, there are small specialty shops and souks in every neighborhood.

    Some shopping malls have a 'carnival' like atmosphere such as Festival City.  There are also several lovely small canals for shoppers to ride in boats.  

Festival City, Abu Dhabi

     

     Emirati shopping is done in groups - segregated groups!  

    You will often see a group of men in their white floor length dishdashas shopping together. 

     

     Women shop in even bigger groups gliding along in their black abayahs sweeping behind them.  Husbands and wives often shop together with all of their children.  

     However, you will rarely see anyone holding hands.  Absolutely no public displays of affection!  And, to my surprise, there are very few older women shopping.  I didn't see many women over the age of 40 hardly ever in stores.  Where were they?  I still love to shop and I'm over 40.

     Unfortunately, the culture in the Middle East is totally patriarchal. 

    Therefore, the daughters or the daughters-in-law (who live with the husband's family) typically do all of the grocery shopping and run the other household errands.  

    The 'older' women stay home.  Go figure.        

     Most malls stay open until midnight.  So, late at night, the many coffee shops are filled with large groups of men in their crisp white, flowing dishdashas sitting together drinking coffee, smoking and having conversations with each other or texting/talking on their cell phones. 

Dubai Mall

     The men go everywhere together because the Middle East is also a segregated society.  As a woman, you are not allowed to go out with a man alone unless he is your father, brother or husband.  The women also go out in large groups for lunch, shopping or coffee.

     When Emirati men meet one another, they greet each other by touching NOSES with the other men and making the 'kiss' sound.  This is their cultural way to say 'Hello'.  They wear very expensive aromatic oils or cologne and always smell very, very good.  So, why not?  

Barb at Textile Souk, Dubai

     No Walmart here, but we had Carrefour stores with household items, clothing, electronics, and groceries. 

    We also had IKEA, Marks & Spencer, the Marina Mall, Abu Dhabi Mall, and several Cooperatives. 

    

     Clothing, handbags, and shoes were reasonably priced, but appliances and electronics were quite expensive. 

     I had quite the challenge shopping and taking taxis as I set up our flats in both Abu Dhabi and Dubai.  YOU try putting an ironing board, broom, mop, bucket and other household items in the trunk and back seat of a taxi.  

    I basically started from scratch twice.  So many trips to and from Carrefour in smelly taxis buying the basics to furnish an apartment.      

     Abu Dhabi in 2004.  We lived there for two years.  Back to the USA from the Middle East. 

    Then, we returned to the United Arab Emirates for three more years.  But this time to Dubai in 2008 - 2011  Now, I was a seasoned shopper.  I knew what to buy and what not to buy.  

     So, do you remember your first dormitory, apartment or house?  What did you need?  Right, everything!  Towels, sheets, pillows, lamps, kitchen gadgets, plates, soap, detergents, etc.  But, most importantly, how many wine glasses will I need? 

  

     After shopping at Carrefour, I then had to somehow hold the elevator in my building and put everything inside.  Plus, the 'Hold' button didn't always work.  Some trick trying to get our household goods out of the elevator and into the apartment without being an octopus! 

     It was also tough trying to decipher labels in Arabic stating which bottle was dishwasher detergent, rinse agent, washer detergent, etc.  Frequently, I resorted to looking at the picture on the bottles.  

    Needless to say, I spent quite some time in the grocer's aisles.  Labels were sometimes in German, French, or English. 

     Business hours were odd, especially for smaller shops and government offices.  Businesses open at 9:00 am and then close at 1:00 pm for the afternoon.  

    People go home, have lunch with their family, and take a nap in the heat of the day even though everything is air-conditioned.  Then stores and businesses re-open at 4:00 or 5:00 pm and remain open until 8:00 or 9:00 pm or later.  Many workers have a split workday.

Jumeirah Beach Walk, Dubai

     Nearly all store clerks worked 12-hour days.  All restaurant wait staff also worked 12-hour days with only one day off each week.  Tough schedule.  

    During Ramadan, everything is open until midnight or 1:00 am so everyone can eat and get their shopping done after sunset. 

    Ramadan is a holy month of worship, study of the Quran, prayer and fasting.   

     We had appliances and furniture delivered at 10:00 pm.  We were exhausted just waiting for them to arrive, install the appliances, and/or put the furniture together.  The workmen would be at our apartment until 2:00 or 3:00 am.  Whew...     

     What do the Emiratis buy?  Status symbols…  Name brands…  High tech gadgets and electronics...  Big SUVs, high-end luxury cars and fast sports cars.  The latest iPhones, iPads, laptops, etc.  

     Women love beautiful, sexy lingerie!  Stylish designer clothes to wear UNDER their abayahs, but only to be seen by their friends in the privacy of homes.  Anything that is flashy and expensive.  Designer handbags, awesome sandals and watches.  Pricey perfume.  The best makeup.      

Armani Caffe, Dubai Mall

   

     Men buy expensive pens with matching cuff links and sandals.  However, watches are their favorite items to buy.  Expensive, large faced, extravagant, flashy name brand watches.  Rolex, Cartier, Tiffany, Gucci, Tag Heuer, Mont Blanc… 

     Most Emiratis have several watches.  Timepieces are an enormous status symbol because this is the one piece of jewelry that can be publicly displayed on both men and women.   

     Think about that…  The men wear their long sleeve dishdashas and the women wear their long sleeve abayahs.  Only their hands and wrists are on display for whatever fashion statement they chose to make.  

    Women also now wear enormous rings, both costume and real, unless they are wearing long black gloves. 

Emirates Palace Beach, Abu Dhabi

     The newer dishdashas have cuffed sleeves, so cuff links are now an important fashion statement and yet another status symbol.  Men select matching cuff links, watches, and pens to sport in the breast pocket of their dishdashas.  

    The price tags on these items are insane.  Every designer has a line of watches, pens, and cuff links. 

Couture Avenue, Dubai Mall

     

    Other status symbols include designer handbags, shoes, sandals, and, of course cars, especially Jaguars, Ferraris and Maseratis.  

     Handbags are very hot items in Dubai because those and shoes are the only other items which can be publicly displayed on women.  So, nothing but the very best for these ladies! 
    
     Handbags and shoes are Louis Vuitton, Jimmy Choo, Manolo Blahnik,  Gucci, Yves St. Laurent, Prada, Chanel, Fendi, Dior, Armani, Donna Karan, Ralph Lauren…  But, if not designer bags, they are colorful, large, and expensive. 

     I was surprised to see numerous lingerie shops in a country where women cover nearly every inch of their body in black.  The storefront window mannequins were scantily clad in sexy underwear and lounge wear for everyone to see.  

    However, inside the store, the shoppers were women.  Victoria’s Secret has now opened stores in Dubai and Abu Dhabi.

     Shoe stores are everywhere!  Imelda Marcos had thousands of shoes, but women in Dubai would rival her shoe closet.  They can’t begin to count all of their shoes.  I can honestly say that I have never seen so many shoe stores in my life.  

     Middle Eastern women wear the most incredibly beautiful leather sandals with rhinestones, bright colors, and stiletto heels.  Their feet are impeccably pedicured even though you can barely see their toes because of the long, black abayah.  However, more conservative women do not paint their toenails.

     I priced a pair of sandals with a few rhinestones at the Mall of the Emirates.  They were made exactly like 'Flip Flops' with the little strap between the toes.  Not much of a sandal and not at all comfortable. YIKES, the price tag was AED 4,490, which converts to $1,247.  

     No kidding...  I looked at several other sandals and they were all similarly priced.  And this is a shoe that doesn't even cover your entire foot!

Jimmy Choo Shoe Store, Dubai Mall

      Men have manicures and pedicures. 

    No one wants ugly toenails when you wear sandals daily. 

    Emirati men all wear sandals with their traditional dishdasha.  

     These men go to their barber frequently to have haircuts and beards trimmed to look like they have a 5 o'clock shadow.  Very attractive look!

     And last, the Emiratis all smell wonderful.  They use oud (very expensive aromatic oil) and perfume lavishly.  When they walk past you, the fragrance is incredibly delightful. 

     The 'Knock Off' designer handbags - the 'Black Market' of shopping paradise!  I had heard about this secret shopping area and I wanted the adventure of finding the hidden stores in the Al Karama district that sell designer handbags at rock bottom, bargain basement, discount prices. 

    It's all about the hunt!  Right? 

     The adventure begins...  I took a taxi to this unfamiliar section of Dubai  because a friend told me that was where the 'knock off' handbags were discreetly sold.  

    But, when the taxi dropped me off, the Al Karama Market was just a very old, dilapidated building with only smelly meat, fish, and produce shops.  Wait, what?   

     This didn’t look right to me.  Where were the handbag stores?  So, I walked out of the market, opened my umbrella to block the sun, but that didn't stop the 110’ heat and humidity.

     Drenched with sweat, I walked down several streets looking for handbag stores.  Finally, I found some.  I browsed around, then casually mentioned to one of the male clerks that I was looking for a 'knock off' Louis Vuitton or Yves St. Laurent bag. 

    He said that they didn’t have any, that they weren’t able to get them or sell them.  This wasn’t the answer I was looking for.  So I continued to walk around the store, waiting and stalling.

Gold Souk, Dubai Mall

    Eventually, the man came back, carefully looked me over, and then told me to follow him.  

    We walked out of the store through a back door going down a hot, dirty street past the stinking Al Karama Fish and Meat Market.  

    We kept walking another few blocks in the blazing Dubai heat.  

     Finally, we went into a building, walked up a large, wide flight of marble stairs, down a dark hallway stopping at a locked door.  He unlocked the door at the bottom and at the top, opened it, motioning for me to come inside.  

    Once we were safely inside the room, he locked us in!  There was another young man in there behind a counter. 

 Shopping for Designer Bags 

     As my eyes adjusted to the light in the room, I feasted my eyes on beautiful, leather handbags, wallets, scarves, and belts.  But, I did not see any Louis Vuitton bags.  So, I asked him about those.  

     He gave me a strange look, but produced a key that opened YET another door to a hidden room.  Even that door was camouflaged behind shelves with handbags on them. 

Blue Souk, Sharjah

     Yes!  Score!  The magic room of counterfeit Louis Vuitton and Yves St. Laurent heaven!  They were everywhere. 

    Large totes, small bags, carry-on luggage, evening bags, makeup bags, wallets of all sizes, all in signature colors and styles.  

     I hit the jackpot!  I didn’t know where to start looking.  Every type and style, all with the fabulous logos. 

     I began trying shoulder bags on to see how they looked.  Finally, I selected a classic dark brown shoulder tote with the light brown logo and cream-colored straps.  

    Then, I fell in love with a light cream-colored bag with the distinct checkered pattern.  I bought wallets for friends and family.  And, I could not resist the small, shiny black Louis Vuitton evening bags.

Dubai Aquarium, Dubai Mall

     

     As I bargained the price down and paid, the shopkeeper, Jafeer, picked up a lovely Louis Vuitton compact.  He made a big presentation of giving it to me as a gift!  What a sweet gesture.  He told me that I was his first customer of the day and he liked me. 

     Crazy adventure!  Traipsing down the street with a complete stranger into a building and into a locked room searching for the ‘designer knock off’ world…  No one knew where I was or with whom.  However, I always felt safe, no real fear at all.  

     I trusted these people because my girlfriends had told me about this section of Dubai and this way of doing business.  Fast forward... Now the police have begun to crack down on these shop owners.  The result is that designer handbags are not readily available. 

     Thrilled with my bargains, I left the store.  The cost?  About 700 Dirhams for all of the LV leather goods which equals about $190 for two great LV handbags, the elegant evening bags, two wallets and of course, the compact. 

     Shopping in the Middle East…  Always an adventure! 

Corniche, Abu Dhabi

Shisha Pipes, Madinat Jumeirah, Dubai