The Multi-Generational Trip
Have you ever taken a multi-generational trip to Paris in the summer when the temperature is nearly 100' daily? The hottest temps recorded in France with the sun baking the pavement.
The entourage included my grandson, Porter; my son, Geoffrey; and his girlfriend, Kate.
This trip was my gift to Porter for his high school graduation.
He is currently in California attending college.
Porter and I have traveled together each summer since he was six years old.
We took the train from Milwaukee to Chicago to visit museums, the Bean, Navy Pier, as well as other places when I lived in Wisconsin.
We have previously visited Washington, D.C., New Orleans, Baton Rouge, Key Largo, St. Louis, New York City, and Spain (his 1st international trip last year).
I usually select the destination. But this year I asked him where he wanted to go because it was HIS graduation trip.
He chose Paris.
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| Kate and Geoffrey |
Then, Geoffrey said that he also wanted to see Paris because he had not been there.
His girlfriend, Kate, wanted to enjoy the excitement too.
Why not?
The more, the merrier.
And, I actually learned more technology from them to enhance my future travels.
Paris Apartment
We booked a two-storey, three bedroom, two bathroom, rooftop terrace apartment with AC.
However, AC in Europe is a misnomer.
European air conditioning isn't exactly the comfortable entire house cooling system we have in the United States.
The 'AC' unit was 2' x 3' and attached to the wall near the ceiling.
I've blown out birthday candles with more force than the 'cool air' coming out of our wall unit.
Unfortunately, there were several very large sliding glass doors and huge windows everywhere with great views of Paris.
So, the heat was intense both inside and outside.
After two sleepless nights and insanely hot days, we discovered the automatic window shades which we happily put down daily to keep the sun and heat out.
But, that also meant that there was no air flow through the apartment ever. Not a hint of a breeze.
We tried to sleep, but 'twas not possible. We woke up drenched in perspiration.
Our rooftop terrace had spectacular views of the city.
However, it was so hot that I could only venture out on the terrace at about 9 pm.
Lovely to see the city lights of Paris and enjoy a glass of wine.
But, I did capture a spectacular sunset from the terrace with the sun directly between the two spires of Sacre-Coeur Basilica atop of Montmartre.
Welcome to Paris in June '26 - the unusual 'deadly heat wave' with 100' temps daily. No relief even at night.
What is the first thing you would do after arriving in Paris?
Visit a cemetery?
Why?
Shade!
Pere Lachaise Cemetery
We stored our luggage near our apartment.
Then, we trudged three blocks uphill to Pere Lachaise Cemetery which is one of the most famous cemeteries in the world.
It's the world's most visited necropolis with 110 acres, cobblestone pathways and a serene, English style park with elaborate funerary art.
Paris's largest cemetery from 1804.
Very tranquil with lots of benches for resting.
And shade, shade, shade.
Pere Lachaise is the final resting place for Edith Piaf, Marcel Proust, Oscar Wilde, Honore de Balzac, Marcel Proust, Moliere, Jim Morrison, Gertrude Stein, Colette, Chopin, and Delacroix.
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| Jim Morrison's Famous Grave |
Paris Days and Nights
We tried strolling around sight seeing in this Sahara like weather.
Everyone was cranky and nearly sick.
We drank huge amounts of water to hydrate which barely helped.
Our days were short because we were simply limited to a few hours outdoors in the morning and evening.
The evenings were not much better, but we gave it our best with late dinners and wine.
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| Thermes de Cluny |
Exploring Paris...
So interesting to see the Roman Ruins, Thermes de Cluny (hot baths), which are part of the Musee de Cluny on Boulevard Saint-Michel.
We tried to find shops with AC, but 'twas not possible in Paris.
The Metro was equally intense with doors closed, no AC, and tons of sweaty locals and tourists squished together speeding through the underground tunnels.
Everyone fanning themselves trying to find relief. Yes, I also bought a fan and it really did help.
But, we MUST see Paris!
We had been training for this!
And, SEE Paris we did!
Eiffel Tower
My Paris highlight was our 10 pm Eiffel Tower viewing. We arrived early and it was still daylight.
But, the lines were long and the heat intensely radiated from the concrete.
We went through metal detectors and handbag checks.
I was awestruck by the enormity of the structure! It was absolutely GRAND in every way at 1,083 feet tall.
Photos cannot even begin to capture the massive, wrought iron structure that was completed in 1889 by Gustave Eiffel for the World's Fair Exhibition.
The worst part was the ride to the Summit in a small yellow elevator with far too many tourists crammed into the cage-like capsule.
Body against body, no AC and not a lot of deodorant had been used!
The Eiffel Tower is the highest public viewing platform in Paris located 906 feet above the ground.
It's also the highest accessible observation deck in the European Union.
Did I mention that I am a bit claustrophobic and afraid of heights?
But, the view was worth the pain. It was still light out when we exited the elevator and looked out over the City of Light.
However, it was difficult to get near the edge to see Paris because we were shoulder-to-shoulder with other tourists.
Finally, we found a place next to the railing. I loved that it was still daylight so I could identify several monuments, buildings and boulevards.
In June, sunset in Paris is about 10:15 pm. So we were able to see Paris both in daylight and after dark.
It was even more impressive than I expected. The beauty of Paris below us looked like a postcard!
I saw Notre-Dame, the River Seine, the Arc de Triomphe with twelve boulevards radiating out from it, several monuments, large parks with impressive gardens, bridges over the Seine and more.
Then, the sun went down and there was a full moon.
Paris was even more magnificent after dark.
Truly, the 'City of Light'.
Paris after Dark
Notre-Dame Cathedral
Notre-Dame Cathedral has returned to its former elegance after the devastating fire in 2019 (re-opened in 2024).
This was my 3rd visit to Notre-Dame.
I am always awestruck.
But, it filled me with joy to once again sit in silence enjoying the beauty of the restored, iconic cathedral built between 1163-1345.
Notre-Dame took nearly 200 years to build and still stands.
It always boggles my mind to visit a cathedral that is so incredibly old.
I usually attend Vespers or Evening Prayer in cathedrals in each city I visit.
A guided tour is also a must.
I find that the evening services with clergy, hymns being sung, scripture readings and prayers are most memorable and spiritual.
They fill me with peace and gratitude.
Window Shopping - A Cultural Pastime
We went our separate ways some days to explore the city and met up for dinner.
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| Book Stalls |
Museums, monuments, and walking along the Seine with its book stalls.
Watching the river boats.
Strolling down interesting streets, thru vibrant parks and lush green gardens.
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| Book Stalls along the Seine |
Window shopping in Paris is a true cultural pastime.
A simple walk turns into a sensory experience.
It is a free, leisurely treat without using your credit card.
Historic alleyways, hidden streets and large boulevards are lined with small boutiques, vintage shops and haute couture flagship stores.
Storefronts treat window design like a high art form.
Colorful displays, beautiful lighting, and staging clothes, antiques and pastries like fine art.
'Presentation' is everything in Paris!
The Parisians DO have the most elegant window displays, especially chocolate shops.
There are simply tons of photo opportunities to capture the beauty of this city.
When was the last time you lunched alone at a cafe?
No conversation, no cell phone, no book...
I totally enjoyed the ambiance, the view, the food and the peace.
Just breathe and be present.
Window shop...
Ride a carousel...
Meandering is a 'must' in Paris...
Stroll along the Seine watching the boats...
Buy macaroons to munch on as you walk...
Sit in a small church alone with your thoughts...
Have a glass of wine at a cafe to people watch...
Stop to eat a croissant... no matter the time of day...
I think that these are 'Laws' in Paris!
If not, they should be.
Carousels
I rode two charming carousels in Paris.
When I travel, I search for vintage carousels and ride them in every city.
It makes me happy and I feel like a child again.
It's also my way to appreciate the history, music and exquisite craftsmanship of hand-carved horses and other animals.
Did you know that carousel ceilings were often hand painted?
Most carousels in Europe were built between 1880 and 1930 during what was known as the Golden Age of Carousels.
Master carvers crafted thousands of intricate, hand-painted wooden figures before the Great Depression devastated the industry.
Not all carousels have music. But, I do enjoy calliope style music and lights.
My family also had the pleasure of riding a sweet, small carousel with me in the Jardin des Tuileries on our first day.
One of the most unique carousels is in Luxembourg Gardens created in 1879 by Charles Garnier. For children only.
It is one of the oldest carousels in Paris and still features a traditional ring-catching game.
It is so old that it has NO LIGHTS, NO MUSIC, NO FLOOR!
The ground below IS the floor.
And, it has unusual vintage wooden animals.
Unfortunately, it was closed and covered that day. (Internet Photos)
Double-Decker Carousel
My favorite carousel in Paris was the enchanting double-decker beauty in front of the Hotel de Ville near Notre-Dame.
I rode it not only once, but twice!
Ah, the simple pleasures in life.
Known as Carrousel La Belle Epoque.
It features woodwork and artistic elements attributed to the renowned French fairground builder, Gustave Bayol.
Also, the Hotel de Ville (built between 1874-1882) is NOT a hotel.
It is the Paris City Hall.
Hotel de Ville houses the headquarters of the city's municipal government, offices and official apartments of the Mayor of Paris.
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| Hotel de Ville |
Jardin des Tuileries
We began our first day at the famous Musee du Louvre with its impressive glass pyramids designed by I.M. Pei.
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| Geoffrey and Kate |
Next, we walked thru the Jardin des Tuileries where I insisted that we all ride a small carousel together.
My hope was to feel a breeze and get cooler. 'Twas not possible...
It was an old fashioned 1900's style carousel decorated with cherubs and brightly colored saddles.
Then, my son and grandson rode the 'Air Swing' together. This was a super high-flying chair swing!
None for me - too high. But, they had a great time.
We were trying to 'beat the heat' in any way possible, but 'twas not possible'. We used this phrase often during our trip.
We continued walking on the shaded Grand Allee (main path) in the Tuileries which is the wide, central dirt path through the gardens with dozens of classic and modern statues.
At the farthest end of the garden is the Musee de l'Orangerie with Monet's giant Water Lilies murals.
But, the loveliest area is the Octagonal Basin where visitors can sail small toy wooden boats.
It is also our first sighting of the iconic 'Green Metal Chairs'. We enjoyed sitting in the comfortable chairs overlooking the basin.
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| Green Metal Chairs |
Parisian gardens are truly extraordinary.
Enormous grounds, quiet, shady, away from busy streets filled with noisy traffic, lots of benches and chairs, and just so inviting.
I love that people go to the gardens to walk around, enjoy the water basins/fountains or just sit reading a book.
Everyone takes their children to the playgrounds. Lots of people bring a picnic lunch or a bottle of wine to share.
The public gardens in France are quite popular and enjoyed by people of all ages.
Luxembourg Gardens and Medici Fountain
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| Luxembourg Palace |
This is the largest park in Paris and one of my favorites.
Queen Marie de' Medici (wife of King Henry IV) had the grand palace, sprawling gardens, octagonal Grand Basin and the Medici Fountain built from about 1611-1630.
She had the Luxembourg Palace and the Jardin du Gardens built to escape the dark, gloomy Louvre Palace.
The Queen wanted to establish an independent royal residence and to recreate the warm, familiar Florence aesthetic of her childhood.
And, it is exquisite!
I especially loved the rectangular, shaded Italian Medici Fountain.
So interesting that visitors just sit quietly in chairs alongside the fountain to look at it and simply enjoy its beauty.
The peaceful fountain definitely reminds me of Italy. The Queen certainly had a great vision.
Also, there is the most delightful octagonal Grand Basin where children push small sailboats around with long sticks as they have done since 1927.
No motors, not wind propelled, but children using sticks!
They loved it!
The Luxembourg Palace now houses the French Senate.
Iconic Green Metal Chairs
There are the iconic green metal chairs, Chaises du Senat, scattered across Paris parks, including Luxembourg Gardens. You have probably seen them in movies and photos.
These chairs were created in 1923 by artisans of the Paris Park Department.
They were commissioned by the French Senate which still oversees the gardens.
The chairs are lightweight, stackable and easy to move with curved slats to provide ergonomic comfort.
Yes, I sat in one of the green chairs watching the children pushing their sailboats around the basin.
They were quite comfy.
Shakespeare & Company Bookstore
Iconic bookstore on the Left Bank in the 5th Arrondissement.
The original bookstore (1919-1941) was opened by Sylvia Beach, an American expatriate.
This intimate bookstore served as a gathering place and lending library for legendary writers like Ernest Hemingway, Gertrude Stein, James Joyce, F. Scott Fitzgerald, Ezra Pound and T.S.Eliot.
Sylvia Beach closed the bookstore in 1941 during the occupation of World War II after she refused to sell her last copy of a book to a German officer which lead to her brief internment.
George Whitman, an American, opened a new English language bookstore, Le Mistral, at 37 Rue de la Bucherie in 1951 near Notre-Dame.
Then, Whitman later officially renamed the shop 'Shakespeare and Company' with Sylvia Beach's blessing and honoring her original legacy.
This has become one of the most renowned bookstores in the world.
There is always a line of visitors waiting to go inside to buy a book and have it officially stamped with the Shakespeare & Company stamp.
Love the piano on the 2nd floor!
Shakespeare & Company is a narrow, two-story bookstore with small rooms and beautiful wood shelves containing books from all genres.
There is a small, round fire grate in the very first room you enter.
I assumed that it was somehow used to heat the store years ago.
But, I just read that it is only a decorative opening where visitors drop paper money or coins as a financial tribute.
I think my first statement is much more romantic!
I especially enjoy the 2nd floor reading rooms because they are cozy with small tables and nooks to sit and read.
But the stairway is quite special because it features a painted poem by the Persian poet, Hafez (1320-1390).
One line or phrase is painted per step going upward reading from bottom to top:
"I Wish / I Could Show You / When You Are / Lonely OR / In Darkness / The Astonishing / Light / Of your own / Being".
Visiting this bookstore is a 'must' for me every time I am in Paris.
I also bought a small book of love poems for my husband, Bill, and had it stamped with the Shakespeare & Company official stamp.
His new poetry book is by Robert Frost.
Such wonderful memories...
Place des Vosges - 17th Century
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| Courtyard in the center of Place des Vosges |
This is the oldest planned housing square in the Marais District in Paris built between 1605-1612. Over 400 years old.
The apartments are absolutely beautiful with symmetrical red brick and white stone facades.
All apartments face the square.
There are covered arched walkways, cobblestone streets and wood beamed buildings that have withstood the test of time.
I so loved the tree filled, shaded park in the center of the square.
There were benches everywhere and a large fountain in each corner of the square.
Children were running, laughing and playing.
People were sitting quietly reading, some were chatting with friends or having lunch together.
What an idyllic, private area in this bustling city.
There are 36 pavilion houses (9 per side).
They all connect with steep slate roofs and uniform arcades.
There are two larger pavilions for the King and Queen's apartments.
Today, it is a highly sought after Parisian neighborhood.
There are upscale art galleries and a few high-end cafes in the shaded arcades.
When I peeked through open doorways, I saw a few stunning hotels with courtyards.
Also, some very grand entrances leading to three-story apartments above.
Place des Vosges was originally called Place Royale and commissioned by Henry IV to celebrate the marriage of Louis XIII and Anne of Austria.
Paris Sights
One day I found myself strolling on a bridge crossing the River Seine.
I stopped to enjoy an impromptu musical performance by a young, attractive guy playing an upright piano and his older musician friend!
Who pushes their piano all over Paris just to play music on bridges?
Well, this guy did!
They were having the best time making music together.
Everyone stopped, listened, applauded and dropped some Euros in their small music case.
I just really enjoy street musicians. Talk about performing for the 'love of music'.
Another way to see Paris...
Trike Tour!
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| Time for a Croissant |
I had an unexpected surprise while discovering a new part of Paris along the Seine - a military parade.
Suddenly, I heard the rhythmic hoof beats of at least 100 horses clacking on the pavement.
A military parade was in progress in the middle of the boulevard. But, why?
What a sight to behold!
The men in their colorful, spotless military uniforms, polished buttons and matching head gear sitting tall in their saddles.
Even the horses looked French with fancy, gleaming leather saddles, glossy coats and decked out in elaborate gear.
There was row after row of three riders moving in a straight unbroken line with every step matching the horse beside it.
Not sure what the occasion was, but I love a parade!
Last, the 'Pooper Scooper' and Water Truck drove slowly past me taking care of business!
Later, while walking along the Seine watching boats and people, I saw an older lady sitting at the top of the concrete stairs.
Another Parisian 'Living the Good Life'!
She was having a wonderful time chatting and laughing with a friend on her phone.
What a delightful way to spend an afternoon!
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| Shoes off... |
Old man sitting on a door step to rest his feet.
Île de la Cité and Île Saint-Louis
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| Ile Saint-Louis |
There are two natural islands in the middle of the River Seine.
Notre-Dame Cathedral is on Ile de la Cite.
The other small island, Ile Saint-Louis, is an upscale Paris residential area with high-end shops and restaurants.
I walked over the Pont Saint-Louis which is the pedestrian bridge connecting the two islands.
Ile Saint-Louis was perfectly picturesque with lovely shops, restaurants and apartments.
Of course, I had to stop for a chocolate dessert at a tiny cafe to people watch and savor the moment.
There is always time for chocolate!
Montmartre and Basilique de Sacre-Coeur
My favorite place in Paris is Montmartre!
The Sacre-Couer Basilica is at the top of Montmartre at 430 feet high.
How do you get to the top?
Well, we walked 222 steps on the main public staircase in nearly 100' heat. Oof!
There IS a funicular which only takes 90 seconds to ride up, but we were too far away to use it.
In the late 19th and early 20th centuries, Montmartre was a hub for artists such as Monet, Degas, Mondrian, Picasso, Van Gogh, Renoir who lived and painted here.
You can still watch artists paint in the Place de Tetre (The Square) at the top.
In 1889, the colorful Moulin Rouge posters were painted here by Toulouse-Lautrec.
The Moulin Rouge (Red Windmill) is at the base of Montmartre.
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| Montmartre thru Paris Buildings |
1889 was a big year for Paris!
The Eiffel Tower was built as the main entrance and centerpiece for the Paris International Exhibition. Also, the Moulin Rouge opened its doors.
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| Resting in the Shade! |
At the top of Montmartre, there are steep cobbled streets, panoramic city views, lovely restaurants, shops, vineyards and two windmills that survived thru the years.
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| One of Two Surviving Windmills |
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| Kate & Geoffrey |
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| Barb, Porter & Geoffrey |
Sacre-Coeur Basilica is one my favorite churches in Paris, both inside and out.
It has a cluster of smooth bright white domes and a tall campanile (bell tower) defining its Romano-Byzantine architecture.
Don't you just love the musician playing his accordion with his black cat on top of it?
The 'Black Cat' has become a huge tourist attraction with lots of gift items featuring this cat!
There is always time for a delicious Parisian hot dog with family.
The Paris Metro glass canopy (édicules or kiosks) were designed in the Art Nouveau style during the 1900 World Fair.
Architect, Hector Guimard, created them for the opening of the Paris Metro during the 1900 World Fair.
He designed these covered glass structures using plant-like curves and fan-shaped roofs that look like dragonfly wings.
Only two glass canopies survive in Paris today. This one is at Abbesses Metro stop and was moved from Hotel de Ville in 1974.
The other is at Porte Dauphine (still in its original location).
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| About 222 Stairs Up & Down! |
'I Love You' Wall
A mural dedicated to love in Montmartre. A very lovely mural created in 2000 by artists Frederic Baron and Claire Kito.
"I Love You" is written 311 times in 250 languages and dialects across 612 dark blue lava enamelled tiles.
Splashes of red scattered across tiles symbolize scattered pieces of a broken heart which the wall aims to bring back together to form a full heart.
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| Geoffrey and Porter found shade! |
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| Geoffrey and Barb |
Dali Museum
We took a break from the heat to visit the Dali Museum which was on my son's "To Do" list.
What an interesting Surrealist artist and sculptor - Salvador Dali.
One of my favorite pieces was his object sculpture of "The Persistence of Memory" with a teardrop hanging from it.
His last sentence really spoke to me:
"A tear of sorrow beads at the bottom the sculpture: time flies by and brings us closer to death, symbolized by the withered tree and the black marble base".
Benoit - Michelin Star Restaurant
Ooh, la, la... Oui, oui, we did!
We had dinner at Benoit. Truly elegant, totally delicious!
Porter received a Gift Certificate to this incredible Michelin Star restaurant for graduation.
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| Stylish Porter |
Reservation made.
Multi-courses served with wine.
Extraordinary meal and experience!
We enjoyed their Signature Menu with wine pairing.
Snails in their shells with garlic butter and fresh herbs.
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| Snails in their Shells |
Cookpot of small spelt and vegetables with top condiment.
Seared beef tenderloin, potato puree, cooking jus.
Benoit profiteroles, hot chocolate* sauce!
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| Porter and Kate |
Delicious food, outstanding service, incredible wine, but best of all - sharing a special meal in Paris with my family!
What a memory!
Fun French Food Fact
Do you know what a Croque Monsieur is? How about a Croque Madame or Croque Monsieur on Horseback?
One of my favorites in France. Grilled ham and cheese sandwich.
Feeling fancy in France, I had it with a fried egg on top!
That is called Croque Madame or Croque Monsieur on Horseback.
Now, you know how to order this fancy sandwich.
Paris Desserts - Oui, Oui
So many delectable, decadent desserts.
What to select?
One of each...
s'il vous plait.
Colorful macaroons, buttery croissants, delightful eclairs, rich Paris-Brest, mille-feuille, tarte tatin, Saint-Honore and Pain au Chocolate.
I ate so many delicious desserts.
Need I say more?
When in Paris...
Parisian Cafe Chairs
Why DO most cafe chairs face outward in Paris?
However, some cafe chairs face each other.
Chairs face outwards to prioritize 'people watching' and to embrace flanerie (the art of strolling and observing the city).
Also, to treat the bustling sidewalk like a live theatrical stage.
Side-by-side socializing instead of traditional face-to-face seating.
However, I found the seating arrangement quite elegant.
I enjoy sitting and 'people watching'.
Parisian friends sit next to each other facing the street.
They share a collective outward focus rather than private internal eye contact.
There is an unspoken etiquette as locals treat the rows of seats like an audience.
Rearranging or turning bistro chairs inward is discouraged as it breaks the social flow.
However, with four people in our group, we sat across from each other which apparently disrupted our 'social flow'.
Oops!
Paris Doors
These exquisite, colorful doors are iconic works of art that blend history, bright pigments, and fine craftsmanship.
My favorite hidden art gallery in Paris.
From deep navy blue Haussmannian entries to sun-bleached pastel and vibrant wooden panels.
Doors connect private lives with public streets.
Grand, symmetrical double doors in deep navy, bold burgundy, and subtle greens, often paired with heavy stone carvings and ornate iron grilles.
So much beauty, yet so ordinary.
Wouldn't you love to see what the interior looks like?
Elegant, I think.
Charming, small balcony filled with plants.
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| Hungry after the Show |
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| Sloping Slate Mansard Roof |
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| Arc de Triomphe |
But, my favorite memories are of my family simply being together.
How lucky am I?
We shared incredible views from the Eiffel Tower, the absurd opulence of Versailles, a delightful Cabaret Show, laughter, fun conversations, love, hugs, meals together, the 'shade' of Pere Lachaise Cemetery, Metro rides, and even the intense heat of Paris.
This is the Paris that I saw.
