Friday, June 22, 2012

Sir Bani Yas Island






Sir Bani Yas Island, Abu Dhabi


 



    A true ‘Desert Island’ off the coast of Abu Dhabi.  Only one luxurious, intimate five-star hotel on the island for our romantic weekend.  Cheetahs, striped hyenas, Arabian oryxes, Arabian gazelles, sand gazelles, ostriches, giraffes...  The white hot desert, the sharp naked mountains, the cobalt blue Arabian Gulf and glittering white beaches...  All on a ‘Desert Island’.  Very restricted and utterly magical. 





   
An unusual, yet fascinating flight on an old Emirati Air Force C130 cargo plane which had been outfitted with seats.  No flight attendants, no beverage service, no pretzels or restrooms for the two-hour flight.  Our departure was even rather special as we flew out of Abu Dhabi’s private Executive Airport – no cameras or photographs allowed.  When was the last time your pilot opened the back of the plane as you taxied to a stop?  Felt like the blast of a huge furnace when the cargo door opened.   


    As we were cruising at a very low altitude over the Arabian Gulf, the crew invited some of us into the cockpit for the most spectacular view.  I felt like I could reach out to touch the clouds and the whitecaps below.  Looking at the Gulf from the pilot's perspective through the square windows which encircled the plane’s nose down to the floor was almost like flying the plane myself. 







    Cool moist towels, ice water, coffee, tea and an assortment of fruit and dates welcomed us upon our arrival at the Desert Island Resort and Spa.  A long, winding sandy road from the tiny airport landing strip on the north side of the property snaked around to the desert hotel which was the only structure on the southern coast of the island. 


    Kayaking through the quiet, peaceful mangroves, gliding across the calm water, looking at unusual birds and fish became my late afternoon activity.  I paddled a long, blue kayak along with three other guests and our guide.  No sounds, no cars, no honking horns, no airplanes and no talking.  Silence, total silence, except for the birds flying overhead.  What a difference that two-hour flight had made – Abu Dhabi chaos, traffic and noise vs. the solitude of this private island in the Arabian Gulf. 



   
 But, the landscape changed dramatically when Bill and I hopped into the safari Range Rover with the pop-up roof along with several others to enjoy the Nature and Wildlife Drive in the Wildlife Park.  What a scenic outing we had traversing the hills and sandy terrain on the island.  Incredible seeing all of the animals so close and personal.  An ostrich came right up to the jeep, stuck her head through the window and tried to snatch someone's Rolex because she likes shiny objects!  A cheetah prowled about 50 feet from the jeep and that was really frightening!  He was searching for his dinner.  Fortunately, we weren't on the menu.  

  



    The native Arabian Oryxes and Sand Gazelles were hauntingly beautiful standing tall and proud with long horns jutting from their heads.  Sharp, piercing eyes watched as we drove past, but they did not appear to be afraid.  They blended into the desert landscape with their soft tan, beige, dark caramel coloring. 



    The island is now a breeding reserve for some of the rarest gazelle and antelope species.  It’s a natural habitat for both indigenous and introduced wildlife with several thousand free-roaming animals native to the Arabian Peninsula on the island. 





    Sir Bani Yas Island was originally the private island of the late Sheikh Zayed Bin Sultan Al Nahyan, President of the United Arab Emirates, for nearly 30 years.  There are three private palaces on the island:  one for the Sheikh, one for the Sheikh’s wives and visiting women, and the third palace to entertain guests. 

    The island is one of the largest in the Emirate of Abu Dhabi and only recently, the first island to welcome tourists.  Desert Islands Resort and Spa by Anantara is the only hotel on the property with just 64 luxurious rooms.  Reservations are nearly impossible to obtain because it is booked over a year in advance and access to the island is strictly limited to hotel guests.  Transportation to the island is, of course, only by boat or plane.

    However, there is one other interesting and historic ‘property’ on the island.  Ruins of a 1,400-year-old monastery that is the only pre-Islamic Christian site in the region have been found.  It dates back to around 600 AD and was built by a community of 30 to 40 monks.  The monastery was established by pilgrims travelling from India. 

    The remains, which also include a church, chapel and tower, were unearthed in 1992 during an archaeological study.  Excavations will continue as visitors come to the site.  Unfortunately, we did not have an opportunity to visit the historic area.  But, you can read more about this monastery at: 



    I walked on soft, white beaches with crashing waves, hiked through a solitary desert, and enjoyed a private, desert island in the Arabian Gulf.  What a privilege and rare treat!  I continue to be amazed at the incredible natural landscapes that the UAE has to offer – tall, red sand dunes, brilliant beaches and an occasional green oasis.  The Middle East I know is not just sleek high-rise buildings, or glitz and glamour, but so much more.