Traveling alone among 1.4 billion people.
The Taj Mahal, Baha'i Temple (Lotus Temple), Red Fort, India Gate, Jama Masjid, Agra Fort, Sikandara and much more... So exotic, right?
I thought it would be great to fly to India from Abu Dhabi in March 2011.
After all, it was only a 3.5 hour flight.
Would I ever be this close again?
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| Taj Mahal in Agra |
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| Monkeys near Taj Mahal |
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| Taj Mahal 1632 - 1648 |
Why not travel to a different, unfamiliar country? New culture to explore, different religions and interesting history.
I had always wanted to see the awe inspiring, white marble Taj Mahal, the unusual Lotus Temple, and the Golden Triangle cities.
What Could Possibly Go Wrong?
Well first, my flight was delayed. Air India Flight #940 scheduled to depart at 7:45 pm was delayed until midnight. Ugh... Now I'll arrive in Delhi at 5:30 am.
Also, there were only about six women on the plane. I was the only non-Indian female. All of the other passengers were men from India, except for the flight attendants.
Unexpected? Yes.
All of the men were wearing their traditional kurta-pajama which is a two-piece outfit consisting of a long, loose fitting tunic (kurta) and matching pants (pajama), along with a pagri (turban) to cover their hair. But, lots of beards.
Quite the noisy group, so I didn’t think I would get any sleep during the flight. Little did I know how true that would be.
As soon as the 'Seat Belt' sign went off, the men began ordering whiskey with soda or water.
The female flight attendants could barely keep up with the demand for alcohol.
They were racing up and down the aisles all night long delivering the small bottles.
I was somewhat surprised by their whiskey consumption. The more Jack Daniels they drank, the louder they became.
Think ‘Spring Break’ flight to Mexico.
There were so many empty bottles on their trays - no room for a meal.
But, most annoying was how they prepared their drinks. They grabbed the miniature Jack Daniels bottle and smacked it upside down on the tray table. THWACK, THWACK!
Then, they twisted the cap off pouring the whiskey into their glass. Last, they popped the soda can open with an annoying loud SNAP CLICK HISS and poured the bubbly into the whiskey. This went on non-stop for the entire flight.
BANG, BANG the tiny bottles on the tray. POP, POP the soda can. I’m surprised that the small whiskey bottles didn’t break.
I wish I had taken a video of their Happy Hour mixology methods. So much racket with all of the bottles banging and their loud conversations.
I can’t imagine how much Johnnie Walker they went through on this short flight. I didn’t even realize that they drank liquor.
I had a bottle of water and just watched the party going on around me. But, they were all able to walk off of the plane upon landing.
I later learned that India is the world’s largest consumer of whiskey.
Who knew?
Arrival in India
To say that I was overwhelmed by the sheer number of people at the Indira Gandhi International Airport is an understatement. I took the first available taxi to the Hotel Grand in New Delhi.
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| Hotel Grand |
Ah, the Hotel Grand, until it wasn't.
All I wanted was to rest my body by getting into bed. After a short nap, I decided to take a shower and start exploring Delhi.
As I undressed, I found creepy, crawly, black bugs in my underwear and slacks. Oh no!
Racing back to my bed, I yanked the sheet back and much to my surprise there were other 'Guests' in my bed upon close inspection! Ugh...
I immediately called the front desk to request another room because I certainly did not want to share this experience with uninvited guests.
They suggested merely changing my sheets. NO! Not happening.
Soon, I had a new room and a new bed without the disgusting, nasty critters. After all, this is the 'Hotel Grand'.
Interesting hotel business card which they insisted I keep with me at all times because it said: 'I am Staying at Hotel Grand'.
Apparently, you give this card to a taxi or tuk-tuk driver who will know exactly where to take you.
Not a great country in which to get lost.
But I loved the back of the card which listed the 'Affluent Amenities':
Central AC, 100% Power Backup (always good to have), 24 hour Internet access in hotel's lobby, Color TV and Telephone in Every Room, Round the Clock Security, Glass Capsule Lift, and my personal favorite - Running Hot & Cold Water.
Exploring Delhi
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| Milk Station |
One of the most unusual places I saw just a block from my hotel was a Milk Shop where women were lined up with their metal buckets and containers.
They paid a few Rupees to have their containers filled with milk and off they went.
As I continued walking down my street, I watched a woman remove her husband's pagri or safa (their traditional head covering).
She then began combing his straight, uncut, waist length gray hair (Kesh) and gathered his hair into a bun called a joora or topknot.
Last, she secured his hair with a small wooden comb called a kanga. Sikhs, as part of their faith, do not cut their hair as they consider it a gift from God.
This small, intimate ritual was lovely to watch.
I noticed that the tuk-tuks (a motorized, three-wheeled vehicle often used as a taxi primarily in Southeast Asia) could barely get through the streets.
There were countless wooden carts pulled by cows or ox, people on bicycles, motorbikes weaving in and out, small delivery trucks, plus hoards of people.
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| Open Air Market |
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| Spices |
I came upon an outdoor bazaar with an incredible selection of spices, as well as swarming streets full of open air shops, clothing stalls, meat stores, and more.
Delhi was incredibly colorful with the Indian women wearing their vivid, eye-catching saris.
This enormous capital city was overflowing with fascinating sights, sounds and unusual smells.
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| Meat Market |
Markets full of dried fruits, nuts, spices and the aroma of food being cooked.
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| Children Riding to School |
Walking alone on the busy streets of Chandi Chowk (Moonlight Square) was fascinating.
This area is East Asia’s largest wholesale market with an abundance and variety of food, delicacies, sweets, books, clothing, electronics, shoes and other leather goods.
I was overwhelmed by the poverty, beggars, incessant noise, filthiness and squalor.
Streets and sewers that were not well maintained.
Electric wires and cables hanging everywhere.
What were they connected to?
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| Delhi Cemetery |
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| Cemetery Sign |
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| Delhi Cemetery |
Yet, I found a small, ancient immaculate cemetery in this same concentrated part of the city.
Very peaceful. I sat down to rest and reflect on life in this city.
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| Jama Masjid (1656) in Delhi |
I visited the Jama Masjid which is the focal point in the historic heart of Old Delhi.
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| Jama Masjid |
It is also the largest mosque in India and can hold 25,000 worshipers in the large courtyard.
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| Barb and Friends |
It features three gateways, four towers, and two minarets.
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| Water Faucets to perform ritual ablutions before prayer |
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| Jama Masjid |
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| Man Praying at Jama Masjid |
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| My Tuk-Tuk Driver |
Finally, after a few hours of walking in the heat, I hired a tuk-tuk pedaled by a very strong man to take me around this crowded city and back to the hotel at the end of the day.
Dinner and wine on the rooftop terrace restaurant was exactly what I needed after my long day.
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| Rooftop Restaurant at Hotel Grand |
Hired a Driver and Car
After my first exhausting day, I spoke with the hotel manager and hired a driver that he highly recommended. I spent the next few days with Mr. Ali who drove his brother's very old, very small car.
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| Road Trip to Agra |
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| Sights on the Road |
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| Roadside Restaurant |
He took me to explore New Delhi and Old Delhi, as well as cities in the Golden Triangle of India (Delhi, Agra, and Jaipur in northeast India).
Mr. Ali was a tall, slender older man. He was educated and interesting with a wealth of information and great pride for his country.
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| Mr. Ali |
He helped me navigate each tourist site and introduced me to some delicious Indian cuisine during our days together.
Indian Chaat is a savory snack known for its sweet, spicy, and tangy flavors and a mix of textures. It typically includes a base of fried dough, potatoes, chickpeas, chutneys, yogurt and spices.
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| Chaat |
The popular cuisines of Delhi include Chaat, Chole Bhature, Debabs and Rolls, Paranthas, Butter Chicken & Momos.
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| Momos |
One of my culinary favorites: Momos which are dumplings typically filled with meat or vegetables encased in simple dough. Common fillings include chicken, pork, yak, or buffalo, cabbage, carrots, onions, garlic, ginger, and scallions.
However, there were just so many cultural, historical and spiritual sites to visit that I could not possibly take them all in during my time with my guide.
Mr. Ali also took me to small, out of the way carpet shops and stores that only a local would know.
How to Wear a Saree or Sari
My favorite place was a little fabric shop where his sister, Fatima, worked. She and her co-worker, Aisha, taught me the subtle art of wearing a Saree. What a unique cultural experience!
But you must have the essential accessories: a choli (the blouse), a petticoat and finally the Saree or Sari, usually of similar material such as silk, muslin or fine cotton. The ladies’ instructions were quite detailed:
First, you put on the choli, and then fit the petticoat snugly round your waist so that the saree does not slip. Last, the saree went towards the left and tucked in.
Then, clockwise turn with the saree; make 7- 10 knife pleats about 5" wide; material to the left, back to the front and repeat 6 - 8 times leaving about 2 yards of saree free to pass round the hips and across the shoulders.
Tuck the pleats in, bring it to the front, and gather the material placing it over the left shoulder letting it fall gracefully behind and over the left arm.
Whew... Are we finished? My saree looked like a jumble of material that I had slept in. I could have used a few safety pins to hold it all together.
What a cultural art form! I had no idea this would be so challenging. I now totally admire the graceful beauty of Indian women wearing their Sarees.
When in India... Sorry, I mean Sari or Saree!
Historic Sites in Delhi
Most impressive for me was walking through the interior and grounds of the Red Fort, also known as Lal Qila, (1638-1648).
This fort served as the primary residence of the Mughal emperors (1526-1857).
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| Red Fort, Delhi |
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| Red Fort, Delhi |
It's in the heart of Old Delhi sitting on the Yamuna River bank. The Fort's Lahore Gate faces the Old Delhi bazaars.
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| India Gate, Delhi |
The India Gate (137 feet tall) is stunning and has a likeness to the Paris Arc de Triomphe.
India Gate is a war memorial that represents soldiers of the British Indian Army who died in World War I (1914-1921) and the Third Anglo-Afghan War (1919).
It also commemorates those who died in other campaigns between 1914 and 1921 including France, Flanders, Mesopotamia, Persia, East Africa and Gallipoli.
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| Rashtrapati Bhawan, Delhi |
We drove past the stately Rashtrapati Bhawan which is the official palace and residence of the President of India.
This was the former residence of the British Viceroy during colonial rule and now represents India's democratic traditions and its transition from colonial rule.
It's elegantly situated on Raisina Hill in New Delhi with 340 rooms spread over four floors, 2.5 kilometers of corridors and a 190-acre garden.
(I was unable to take good photos from the car. I used a few online photos).
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| Qutub Minar, Delhi |
Qutub Minar (1199 - 1220) is a UNESCO World Heritage site.
Quite a majestic minaret on Lal Kot which is Delhi's oldest fortified city.
This is the most visited heritage site in the city!
We drove past the imposing, majestic Raj Ghat memorial complex located on the western bank of the Yamuna River. The memorial features a black marble platform with an eternal flame at one end.
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| Mahatma Gandhi's Memorial, Delhi |
This is the resting place of Mahatma Gandhi who was cremated here on January 31, 1948.
Baha'i Temple (Lotus Temple)
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| Lotus Temple, Delhi (1986) |
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One of the most meaningful and peaceful places I visited was the Lotus Temple, also called the Baha'i House of Worship (1986).
The purpose of the Baha’i religion is to unite all religions, races and people in common faith with the oneness of humanity.
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| Nine pools of water surround the Temple |
Shaped like a lotus flower and clad in Grecian marble, the interior was airy and spacious. Quiet, tranquil and serene even though it was filled with people.
Faiburz Sahba, architect, designed the Temple in an Expressionist style.
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The Temple design is based on ancient lotus flowers symbolizing purity, rebirth, enlightenment, and beauty.
Constructed of white marble featuring nine pools of water surrounding it. Gives an impression that the Temple is floating on water!
NO SHOES allowed in the Temple. Everyone must be BAREFOOT.
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| Please Collect Your Shoes Here! |
I found all of the monuments inspirational, emotional and exceptionally well preserved.
Modes of Transportation
While traveling through India to Agra to visit the Taj Mahal and the Agra Fort, I was intrigued by the different forms of transportation.
People pedaling their bicycles, entire families riding on motorbikes, auto rickshaws, bike rickshaws, tuk-tuks, small cars, trucks of every size, wooden bullock or ox carts being pulled by oxen, cows, camels or donkeys.
Cacophony of horns…
Never have I heard so many unusual, loud horn sounds from vehicles – honking, beeping, tooting, blaring, musical and just plain annoying. Most people drive with their ‘horns’ rather than their hands.
Not a lot of directional signaling going on either. Side mirrors are often folded into the car because of traffic jams, plus the close proximity of people and vehicles. Bad roads made even worse by overcrowding.
Again, the poverty was inescapable. As we drove along in a rural area, he pointed out several 'Dung Huts' or "Kutcha Houses".
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| Dung Hut |
Yes, people living in traditional huts made of cow dung and mud with thatched roofs was a common sight along the rural roads.
These traditional dwellings are not just a practical housing solution, but are also deeply rooted in cultural beliefs and practices. The application of cow dung on walls and floors is believed to offer various benefits, including natural insulation and pest control.
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| Sign in Agra listing Historical Sites |
Taj Mahal in Agra
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| 1632 - 1648 |
Even more regal and imposing in person than I anticipated.
More awe inspiring than the photographs.
Peaceful, serene, and grand. Truly an architectural splendor.
In Persian, "Taj Mahal" translates to "Crown of the Palace".
It is also known as a symbol of love and is one of the Seven Wonders of the World.
The Taj Mahal is a 42-acre complex that includes several structures on its enormous grounds.
The centerpiece is the Mausoleum with a reflecting pool. Other structures include a red sandstone Mosque, as well as the Jawab or guest house which are identical and designed for symmetry, plus the grand Main Gate building.
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| Taj Mahal - Main Gate |
A formal Charbagh Garden (Persian style garden layout that divides the garden into four quadrants by pathways or flowing water channels); a main gateway; a forecourt; and a bazaar area all set within a walled area.
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| Taj Mahal on the River Yamuna |
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| Beautiful red sandstone |
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| Taj with four tall Minarets |
This magnificent structure was built by the Mughal emperor, Shah Jahan, as a Mausoleum for his beloved wife, Mumtaz Mahal, who died during the birth of her 14th child in 1631. She and her husband are buried here.
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| Main Gate to Taj Mahal |
The Taj is a physical manifestation of Shah Jahan's deep love and grief for Mumtaz.
Construction began in 1632 and was completed by 1648.
The twin tombs of Shah Jahan and Mumtaz Mahal (his wife) are set within the inner core of the Taj Mahal.
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| Tombs of Shah Mahal & Mumtaz Mahal |
This is not just a tomb, but also a symbol of love, harmony, purity and spirituality.
These commemorative cenotaphs can be seen by the public from a viewing area, although no one is allowed inside the chamber.
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| Garden at Taj Mahal |
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| Lady in colorful caftan |
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| Booties required over shoes to protect the marble & sandstone |
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| Stunning building on Taj grounds |
The Taj is a masterpiece of Indo-Islamic architecture, combining Indian, Persian and Islamic influences.
Bathroom Challenges
The only problem with most of the historical sites that I visited was the lack of modern bathrooms which is understandable given when these masterpieces were built.
But, I learned some valuable lessons about traveling which I will share.
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| Bathrooms at Taj Mahal |
The primitive restrooms near the Taj only had porcelain framed holes in the ground for women to use.
Also, you could buy a few sheets of toilet paper - cash only.
Wear a long skirt, NOT slacks. If you look at how women dress in other countries, you will often observe long dresses or skirts.
Underwear? Probably not. Easier without, right?
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| Taj Mahal - Bathroom Sinks |
Sinks with water, but no paper towels.
Other historical sites had similar bathrooms, but often WITHOUT doors and walls.
Other Agra masterpieces that I visited included palaces, forts and mausoleums with red sandstone and marble being the choice for construction.
I shortened my solo journey because I was simply overwhelmed by the sheer number of people, the vast country and transportation challenges. I had planned to stay for ten days, but returned to Abu Dhabi after only six days.
Despite the challenges, I will always treasure this adventure and memories. Also, everyone that I met in India was lovely, warm and welcoming.
