Saturday, February 25, 2017



  
Dubai and the Lost Red Wallet

    Have you ever lost your wallet, your purse, your cell phone or your keys? Or, worse yet, have you ever had your wallet stolen?

    What a helpless feeling, right?

    All of your credit cards, your driver's license, cash, medical insurance cards, perhaps even photos like we had in the old days, all missing and need to be replaced.   What a nightmare!



    Bill and I always took a taxi to go out for dinner and drinks in Dubai on Thursday nights (the beginning of our Middle East weekend).   You certainly can't have an alcoholic drink and then drive your car.   Best way to go to jail or be put on the next flight home (as in deported). 

Le Meridien Hotel, Dubai





    We loved to go to Le Meridien Hotel because of the interesting selection of various restaurants on the beautiful grounds.  There are 18 restaurants and bars including Sukhothai, Kiku, Meridien Village Terrace, Casa Mia, M's Grill and Jules Bar.  You can dine or dance outdoor or indoor.  The hotel, pools, nightclubs, outdoor dance floors, indoor/outdoor venues and restaurants were first class.   Food was always great and people watching was outstanding!  

Pool at Le Meridien, Dubai

    After enjoying a delicious dinner at the The Dubliner's (great Irish restaurant) where I always ordered the best liver and onions with mashed potatoes and Bill had the tastiest pork chops in the world, plus ice cold Guinness, we hopped into a taxi in front of Le Meridien Hotel.   Not a lot of traffic on this hot, humid Thursday night, so we arrived home quickly. 

Barbara at The Dubliner's, Dubai



The Dubliner's, Dubai


    It was about 10:30 pm as Bill got out of his side of the taxi from the backseat.

    I paid the driver which is how we always did it.   I handed several Dirhams to the him and gave him a good tip.  

    I put my wallet back into my purse which was on my lap in the backseat of the dark taxi.

    I got out of the taxi and went into our apartment building as the taxi drove off.   We went up to our flat to get ready for bed.

Apartment in Dubai

    About 10 minutes after we were home, my cell phone rang.   Now, this was very odd because we were new to Dubai and I did not have many friends who actually had my cell phone number. 

    Who could be calling me at this late hour on a Thursday night? 

    I didn't recognize the number on my cell phone, but answered it anyway.   Hello? 

Festival City, Dubai - Shopping and Restaurants

Festival City, Dubai

    A deep male voice with an Arabic accent asked if this was Barbara Edwards.   I said yes, this is she. 

    He said that he had my wallet. Now, I was really puzzled.   

    How could he have my red wallet when I had just paid the taxi driver.  

    I asked him to hold the phone while I checked my purse.   Well, guess what?   No red wallet in my handbag.   What?   Where could it have gone?

    I asked him where he was so we could meet him.   He said he was at the market on the corner.   I told him that my husband and I would walk the one block to the market and meet him.

    Bill and I crossed the sand parking lot in front of our apartment building in the desert heat at 11:00 pm to the grocery store on the corner.



    There was a Middle Eastern man standing there holding my red wallet out to me.  Is this yours? Yes, it's mine. He asked me to check the contents to see if all of my money, credit cards, driver's license and business cards were there. 

    All there!   Everything was still inside my red wallet.   He was able to call me because I always carried business cards with my Dubai cell phone and my USA cell number.

    I asked him how he had gotten my wallet.   He said he had been walking through the parking lot in front of our apartment building and found it on the ground in front of our building. 

Our Market Area, Dubai

More Shops

    Oh!  It was then that I figured out how I had lost my red wallet.  I paid the taxi driver and thought I put the wallet into my handbag.   

    But, it had landed in my lap and when I got out of the backseat, my wallet fell to the ground next to the taxi. 

    It was too dark to see the red wallet on the ground and, of course, it had not made a sound as it landed in the sand.

    I was so thankful to this stranger in a strange land!   He found a wallet full of money and credit cards.   And, he did the right thing!  

    Not one Dirham or credit card was missing.

    I'm not sure how many cities or countries in the world where this story would have had a happy ending.   But, in the Middle East the people are kind, generous, thoughtful and honest.

    I thanked him profusely.   I offered him money, but that was actually disrespectful on my part.   He was embarrassed by the offer, especially coming from a Western woman.   Bill shook his hand and thanked him too.

    He said he was only happy to have found the owner of the red wallet.   Then, he turned and disappeared into the hot, steamy night.


Desert outside of Dubai

Barbara Jumping for Joy!

  












    I later sent him a text message to thank him again.   He did not respond because I'm a woman and he is a Middle Eastern man who would never dream of texting a woman he did not know.

    We were so impressed by the honesty of all the people we met in the Middle East.   This is but one example.  

    Shukran!


Tuesday, February 7, 2017





ExpatFocus Newsletter Interview – January 2017


Barbara and the Falcon, Jebel Ali Resort

Who are you?
I have been an educator for over 30 years with a Master’s Degree from the University of Wisconsin.  I taught graduate and undergraduate business management and communication courses at Cardinal Stritch University in Milwaukee.  I also taught music and theory (private piano lessons) for over 23 years.   

I also have extensive professional experience both in the USA and in the Middle East.  I was also an award winning sales representative in the pharmaceutical industry.

My overseas experience began in 2004 as I became the Executive Director of the American Business Group (American Chamber of Commerce) in Abu Dhabi, United Arab Emirates, for two years which included fund raising, membership sales and development, and special events. 

Barbara on a Night Out in Abu Dhabi
Then, in 2008 my husband and I returned to the UAE and lived in Dubai for three years.  I held the position as the Executive Director of the International Technology Education Center, Knowledge Village, Dubai (an ESL language-teaching institute) which taught adults from all over the world.   

I was also appointed as the Executive Director of the American Chamber of Commerce in Bishkek, Kyrgyzstan.  Unfortunately, we were not able to move and honor this commitment. 


 
Barbara and Bill - Desert Safari - Dubai

Where, when and why did you move abroad?
My husband and I moved to Abu Dhabi in 2004 for his career in higher education from San Miguel de Allende, Mexico where we had been living for over six months. 

We lived and worked in Abu Dhabi in 2004 and 2005.  My husband was the Executive Director of the UAE Military Language Institute.  I taught ESL for a few months before becoming the Executive Director of the American Business Group. 
Barbara at the Grand Mosque

Grand Mosque, Abu Dhabi






Shoes at the Grand Mosque, Abu Dhabi


Grand Mosque, Abu Dhabi

In 2008, we returned to the UAE to live in Dubai for three years until 2011.  Again, my husband’s career took us back to the Middle East.  This time he was the Principal of two all boys, government funded, science and technology based high schools in the Emirates of Dubai and Ras Al Khaimah.


What challenges did you face during the move?
It was challenging to find our way around the larger city of Dubai due to increased traffic, more roads and highways, plus the sheer volume of people living in a fast growing city.  Abu Dhabi was a much easier city to navigate because it is laid out on a grid and there were fewer people living there.  Also easier because it’s an older city, as well as the capitol of the United Arab Emirates.

 
Abu Dhabi Apartments

My 30-mile commute to work in Dubai took two hours each way from our flat.  The stoplights, the round-abouts, bumper-to-bumper traffic and so many pedestrians all increased the stress and drive time.  This was the only time I rented and drove a car during all of the years in both Abu Dhabi and Dubai.

Burj Al Arab, Dubai
It was also challenging to go grocery shopping locally because most labels were in Arabic and many clerks did not speak English.  However, it was easier to shop at the large grocery and retail store called Carrefour which catered to a more international customer. 

Approximately half of the labels were in English and the other half were in Arabic.  But, there was a large selection of fruits, vegetables, meat, fish and other goods.  I found myself looking at the pictures on the cans and made decisions based on that visual.  I could not always understand cleaning supplies though. 

There were challenges finding taxis at times too.  Not enough taxis and too many people.  It was very hot and humid and so many other pedestrians waiting for taxis.  My husband used the car daily for his job, therefore I had to take taxis. 

I also had to furnish and start new households three different times.  Not only that, but we moved eight times in nine years!  That meant using taxis and filling them with a mop, broom, bucket, cleaning supplies, glassware, dishes, kitchen utensils, bedding, pillows, lamps, rugs, towels, etc.  Anything that you need to start a new household or a new apartment, from scratch. 


Are there many other expats in your area?
We never lived in an American compound as many expats did in the Middle East.  We knew a lot of Americans from various companies.  They all lived in compounds filled with villas and Americans only.  We also met Brits, Australians, Canadians who had the same living arrangements.  They also had their own private clubs with swimming pools, activities, restaurants and bars.  But, again, they would only associate with expats from their country.

El Diar - Our Apartment Building, Abu Dhabi

Corniche, Abu Dhabi

 
We did not live in that manner.  We always rented a flat or a villa living next door to people from other countries, cultures and nationalities.  I loved the aromas as the women cooked.  I found that I could identify which country they were from by the seasonings being used.  I interacted with everyone in my apartment building and got to know the men and women.

To me, living abroad meant living with people NOT like me.  That was one of the most interesting and exciting things about living abroad.   

Burj Al Arab near the Madinat Jumeirah, Dubai

Shisha Pipes, Madinat Jumeirah, Dubai

What do you like about life where you are?
As I said, I loved the intercultural exchange as I got to know ladies and men from other countries.  I also taught ESL to adults from all over the world.  But the most interesting students were the ladies from the United Arab Emirates.  Most of my classes were segregated – Women Only or Men Only.  The classes at ITEC in Dubai were typically co-educational.  I also was a substitute teacher for an all girls school and an international school (K-12) in Dubai.

As I taught women in Abu Dhabi, I became great friends with them.  I was invited to share meals with them in their homes, I met their families (not the men though), I went shopping with them, I went to weddings with them and we had great times together!  

Dubliner's Pub, Le Meridian, Dubai

Barbara, Dubliner's Pub, Dubai

They were very intelligent, curious about everything Western, lovely and friendly women who were good students, wanted to learn English, wanted to get married, and be good mothers and wives.  This was the cultural exchange and experience that I loved about living in the Middle East!


What do you dislike about your expat life?
At times it was difficult to communicate with people from other cultures due to their accents and my not understanding their English.  Sometimes, as a teacher, if I could not get my message across in English, I had to ask a student to translate into Farsi or Arabic so more students in the class could understand the concepts. 

Also, there were rules in society for expats, yet no rules for the Emiratis.  We expats were expected to obey traffic laws and rules of the road.  However, a UAE citizen could break traffic laws and not be punished.  Also, men had a tendency to pop right in front of you in a line, no matter where you were.  I had that happen in hospital, grocery stores, restaurants, etc.  They felt privileged and protected by being a citizen of the United Arab Emirates.

Jebel Ali Resort, Abu Dhabi

Shisha Pipes, Jebel Ali Resort, Abu Dhabi

Jebel Ali Resort, Abu Dhabi

The society was very patriarchal, as I expected.  But at times, this frustrated me as I made more and more friends with the women of the Middle East.  If I had a lunch or coffee planned with one of my Middle Eastern lady friends and her husband decided that he didn’t want her to go, he simply forbade her to go. 

She would text or call me telling me that her husband said she could not go out that day.  I felt very badly for these women who, of course, must obey their husband, their father or their brother, whoever was the family patriarch.  No independence for the women in these countries.  Unfortunately, I don’t see that changing within their societal norms, culture or religion.   


What is the biggest cultural difference you have experienced between your new country and life back home?
Well, living abroad simply widens your horizons more than you can ever begin to know until you have the experience.  I realize that freedom and democracy are values that we take for granted as citizens of the USA.  Other countries simply do not govern or operate by those rules.  As a woman in the United States, I am blessed to have the right to vote, to drive a car, to take a job, to make choices about our pregnancies and so much more.  The women in the Middle Eastern countries in which I lived do not have even those basic rights and freedoms. 

Rotana Cove Resort, Ras Al Khaimah


Rotana Cove Resort, Ras Al Khaimah


Also, people in the USA are not always as geographically and politically aware and knowledgeable of other countries unless they have traveled extensively or lived abroad.  I found a disconnect with friends and co-workers upon my return from the Middle East because their experiences and world awareness was simply different from mine.    

I feel so fortunate to have had the opportunity to live and work abroad, especially in the Middle East as a western woman. 


Falcon & Trainer, Jebel Ali Resort

What advice would you give to anyone following in your footsteps?
Go for it!  Live in another country for six months to a year!  Find an opportunity to live abroad and embrace it!  Research the country in which you will live and the surrounding countries, especially religion, women’s rights, employment and living conditions.  Find a city large enough to have good jobs, affordable housing, public transportation, restaurants, coffee shops, universities, etc. 

But be prepared for the unexpected and go with the flow.  Also, meet new people every opportunity you have.  Make new friends with men and women from other cultures.  Go out to eat with them, cook with them, meet their families and enjoy your differences!  It will be the most rewarding time of your life!  

Look Out for Camels near the Roads

What are your plans for the future?
My husband and I travel often and have begun using Airbnb in other countries.  We love the experience of living in someone’s apartment, meeting the host, learning about the neighborhood from them and not living in a tourist area or hotel.  It’s a great experience. 

We just traveled in August 2016 in Europe – Amsterdam, Germany, Austria, Budapest, and Prague!  Fabulous fun!

Barbara in Amsterdam

We also traveled to Spain last year for the month of April.  In 2017, I’m going again to do the Grand Tour of Spain with three lady friends.  Then, I’m taking my 18-year-old Granddaughter on her first trip to Europe.  We are going to see Italy for 15 days in June!  I can’t wait to share my love of travel with her! 

My husband and I are also planning to return to Ireland and stay in Airbnbs this autumn! 

Again, we love going to local pubs, driving our rental car or taking public transportation and just meeting and talking to people from all walks of life.

Happy Travels!    

Tuesday, January 24, 2017

Driving in Dubai - Part 2






Abu Dhabi

Stop Sign in Arabic and English


DRIVERS LICENSE

    So, here’s the most bizarre thing.  I had to have a Permission Letter (stamped, signed, sealed) from my husband stating that he would allow me to get my Drivers License!  Can you believe that?  What year is this?  And it was only 2008.  

Gold Drivers License - Dubai
    
    Oh, please, please...  Let me drive in this crazy city with these crazy drivers.  I also needed his permission to get a job (another story)!  And just remember that in Saudi Arabia, if you are a woman, you CANNOT ever drive a car!  Forget about it.  Period, full stop, no kidding. 


Jumeirah Beach Shopping

    You must be 18 years old to obtain your drivers license in the United Arab Emirates.  Most people go to Driving School to learn to drive.  Westerners have no problem getting a license.  Just show your current license from your home country, give them a passport photo, and pay for the new license. 

My Drivers License - Dubai



Dubai Creek with Abra Boats

    Unless, of course, you’re a woman.  But, if you are not from the USA, the UK or Canada, then it's much harder to get your license.  Non-western women fail the driving test a dozen times or more before passing.  Cultural issue?  One less freedom for women?  I think so.

    Of course, if you are a Middle Eastern woman and you want to learn to drive, you must hire a female driving instructor (which there are very few).  You must also have your husband's approval or father's permission to take driving lessons and/or get your driver's license. 

Corniche, Abu Dhabi

Corniche, Abu Dhabi
     So, it's a really big deal for Emirati ladies and other Middle Eastern women when they finally pass the test and get their drivers licenses.  



   However, many Emirati women have cars and personal drivers, in which case they won’t be given permission to learn to drive.   

National Day Celebration - December 2

National Day - December 2
  
    Other expats, men and women from Jordan, Lebanon, Iran, Syria, are quite excited and proud to learn to drive because most of them have not had this privilege or opportunity in their home country.  So, you have a lot of drivers new to the concept of driving.  Makes me wonder how safe the roads really are because of these inexperienced drivers.  Also, how well can you see to drive when you are wearing a full veil or a burqa?  Think about that... 


CAMERA TICKETING

    The cameras are EVERYWHERE!  They are big, small, tall, short, hidden in palm trees, openly displayed at intersections, on the streets, at crosswalks and attached to stoplights.  Police rarely stop motorists for traffic violations.  But, if you are speeding, run a red light or make an illegal U-turn, the camera simply snaps a clear picture of your license plate.  Then, when you try to renew your license plates, renew your driver's license or want to leave the country - SURPRISE!!! 

    Now, you have to pay hundreds or thousands of Dirhams in tickets for the past year.  YIKES!!!  You must pay all of your fines or you simply won't be able to leave the country.  Actually, all debts and outstanding bills (utility, rent, etc.) must be paid in full or you won't be getting on that airplane to fly home. 

    Be on the lookout for camels on the roads or near the roads!  They sometimes roam free and/or often get out of the large fenced in areas.  Every single camel has an owner, so you don’t want to hit and kill a camel.  They are worth thousands of Dirhams and you will pay for the camel if you injure or kill it.  

Camels along the Highway

Camels Roaming Near the Highway

    Buckle up and drive safely!  And remember, call when you get there.  It's against the law to talk on your cell phone while driving in Dubai!   




    I have a friend whose husband drove from Dubai to Abu Dhabi (45 miles) every morning for two years before they moved to Abu Dhabi.  
 
    He told me that the usual practice for driving on Sheik Zayed Road from Dubai to Abu Dhabi was if you were in the extreme left lane (remember there are 6 lanes in both directions on a dead straight road where the speed limit is 140 Kms/h (85 miles per hour) but most go at 160 Kms/h- which is the speed at which the cameras "kick in").

    Someone was fast approaching from behind him in a Toyota Landcruiser, Maserati, or Range Rover.  The driving protocol was to move over quickly and let them pass. Much flashing of lights tells you from a few 100 meters away that you must move over... 

Truck Decorated for National Day Celebration

    If, however, you cannot move into another lane because you are sandwiched between the barrier on your left and cars on your right, don't be surprised to either get a "nudge" on your back bumper (at 160 kms/h, remember!) or see the other driver squeeze past you on the left shoulder, a whisker's breadth away from you!  Super scary, but a normal practice! 

Dubai Creek

    Also, don't forget that local Emirati people almost always have very tinted, blacked out windows, so you can't see if they're talking on their mobiles or texting as they drive.  Finally, the usual practice when changing lanes is to simply move towards the desired direction  -  without directional signaling!  

Having Fun on National Day - December 2

     Tooting your horn seems to be mandatory, signaling, however, is optional.  Oh well, how soon you get used to it...  Oh yes, and please note that cars are often left running in the summer while the owners shop in the malls because switching off the big V8/V6 engines for a while means the cars are just too hot when they come out of the cool, air conditioned shopping malls.  It boggles the mind!


LEFT TURNS

    Almost no left turns can be made in Dubai except at stoplights where there are left turn signals and U-turn lanes.  So, don't miss your exit or you'll be going several miles out of your way before you can turn around and even longer on the freeways.   


NO SIGNAL LANE CHANGE

    In the middle east, people simply move in front of you into your lane with no directional signal, tail light signal, no hand signal, nothing.  In the USA, at least we signal and pause before going in front of someone.  But, there aren’t a lot of courteous drivers in Dubai.  So, the winner is the guy who isn’t afraid to take a risk with his car and his life.  He wins because if you don't want to hit him, you brake for him. 


ROUND-ABOUTS

    Round-abouts in Dubai are 2-5 lanes wide and occur every few hundred feet on busy streets.  Talk about crazy drivers.  Try staying in YOUR lane with 4 other cars zipping around you.  Actually, this is where you DO SIGNAL left or right.  Go figure...

    Half of the time I had difficulty getting into and out of the proper lane.  I often spent some time going around and around the round-about trying to move over to exit the crazy merry-go-round of cars!  

Dubai Traffic near the Souks and Dubai Creek

SPEED BUMPS

    The size of small ski slopes.  Your car goes up, over, and then down the other side.  Wheeeee!  They're everywhere - at pedestrian crossings, in the middle of perfectly flat, long stretches of roads, and of course, in parking lots.  So, you are constantly forced to slow down.  No wonder people want to drive fast when they can.  Speed bumps are actually 'shaved' or removed from the roads when the Sheiks travel on certain roads.  Can you imagine that kind of power? 


STOPLIGHTS

    They blink green on/off, on/off, on/off, then solid yellow and finally red.  Don't ever drive through the blinking green light or you will get a ticket.  You had better STOP at the crosswalk intersections or risk being the recipient of the Hidden Camera Ticketing System, the likes of which I have never seen. 

Dubai Creek Traffic

Dubai with Jumeirah Mosque in Background

PLASTIC SEAT COVERS

    Yes, I said Plastic Seat Covers in the desert.  The kind that you had in the 1950s.  The kind that you totally stick to and burn your legs when it's 115' outside!  


    These are the plastic seat covers that the manufacturer puts on the seats.   



    They are almost never removed in the Middle East because the seats stay clean that way.  But what about the dirt that gets on the plastic covers?


CURTAINS ON THE WINDOWS

    Most buses have curtains on the windows which is a great idea considering the heat and bright sunshine.  Just pull the curtains, close your eyes and leave the driving to the bus driver.  There are lots of two-level buses here that look as though they will just topple over as they turn corners.  Talk about needing a seat belt!


TINTED WINDOWS

    Most cars have tinted windows, as do all apartments, villas and office buildings.  But, if you are from the UAE, you are allowed to have very, very dark tinted windows so no one can see inside your car.  All other drivers are only allowed to have light to medium tinted windows.  Wouldn’t really dark tinted windows limit your visibility?  Also, what about wearing a veil or a burqa while driving?  Oh, there I go again sounding rational. 
  
    Good news:  Gas is a bit cheaper, but not by a lot.  Bad news:  So much traffic, no emission control, so tons of pollution and getting worse all of the time.  Heat, humidity, pollution - it's not pretty.


MY TWO HOUR COMMUTE TO WORK

    My 30-mile work commute to Knowledge Village in Dubai took two hours both morning and evening.  Too many people, too many cars and not enough roads.  Try that every day!  Exhausting! 

Burj Khalifa, Dubai

    But, the commute was always interesting.  I passed by the Burj Al Arab every day on my drive.  What a sight to see!  So elegant...  Looks like the sail of a dhow boat. 

    It's one of the most recognized architectural structures in the world.  

    I also saw the Burj Dubai every day on my journey - the tallest building in the world.  

    Unbelievable scenery!  

Burj al Arab, Dubai


Burj Khalifa, Dubai



Barb at Burj al Arab, Dubai
























Burj al Arab, Dubai

   
Happy trails and safe travels!

TOOT, TOOT!  HONK, HONK!   BEEP, BEEP!