So Many Pubs, So Little Time!
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| The Quay's Bar, Dublin |
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| Paddy Mac's, Temple Bar, Dublin |
Ireland is full of the most charming pubs. What a feast for the eyes, ears and soul. Full of laughter, conversations that I couldn't always understand because the charming Irish accent, and aromas from steak and Guinness pie, seafood chowder, and fish & chips.
You might see a cat sleeping on a chair or strolling around a pub.
The pub which was originally called a 'Public House' is a place where local folks gather to eat, have a pint of beer, and talk with their neighbors.
They might play darts and musicians often gather to play trad music (traditional Irish music).
If you have traveled to England, Ireland or European countries, local pubs often have the best food and music with reasonable prices.
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| Killarney Pub |
Pubs in Ireland have some of the most beautiful, elaborately carved wood back bars, tables and stair railings that I've ever seen. Often, even the front doors are hand carved or uniquely painted.
The ambience of an Irish pub is relaxed with no loud or obtrusive music. It's a place for both young and old people. Pubs also have a large selection of different kinds of beer, some wines, and cider. Because of its full menu, a pub allows minors if accompanied by an adult.
Belfast Pubs
‘The John Hewitt’ on Donegall Street.
‘The Dark Horse’ and 'The Duke of York' in the Umbrella Alley or Commercial Court.
The Thirsty Goat, The Onion Pub, and the Yardbird Pub which are all on Hill Street.
This eye-catching rainbow 'Umbrella Alley', also know as 'Commercial Court' or Commercial Entry is in the historic Cathedral Quarter of Belfast.
I was strolling along Donegall Street when I luckily happened upon Umbrella Alley!
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| 'Umbrella Alley', Belfast |
A totally unexpected narrow cobblestone alleyway full of pubs and people.
A pedestrian walkway with brightly colored parasols hanging from above, captivating murals on the walls, happy Guinness drinkers and very old pubs.
Hanging flower baskets on brick walls.
Red benches to sit on as you enjoy your pint of Guinness with friends.
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| Decorative Table Legs |
'Game of Thrones Door'
The Dark Horse Pub
One of my favorite pubs and/or coffee house was 'The Dark Horse' pub because of its iconic decor, polished copper table tops and striking antique surroundings.
Pub furniture and artifacts were collected from some of Belfast’s most famous hotels and buildings.
The Dark Horse serves beer, cocktails, Suki tea and fine coffee in a bygone wood paneled space.
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| The Dark Horse, Belfast |
But, the most exciting bit of trivia is that The Dark Horse Pub has the 10th 'Game of Thrones Door' which is intricately hand carved and embellished.
The Thrones door is an incredible and most impressive work of art!
All ten of the Game of Thrones doors are now located all over Ireland.
These unusual doors were all made from re-purposed wood of two beech trees located in the Dark Hedges which were felled by Storm Gertrude in 2016.
The two rows of about 150 beech trees were planted in the 18th century by James Stuart to line the entrance to his home, Gracehill House.
James Stuart became king of Scotland in 1567 (as James VI) and king of England and Ireland (as James I) in 1603. He ruled both kingdoms until his death in 1625.
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| Art Square, Belfast |
There is also an original outdoor courtyard known as “Art Square” connected to The Dark Horse Pub.
This lovely, unique space featured distinctive and colorful umbrellas hanging from above, as well as artistic murals on the walls paying homage to W.B.Yeats.
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| Art Square, Belfast |
Words from some of W.B.Yeats' most famous poems are etched into bronze doors which lead visitors from the street into the courtyard.
The John Hewitt
Very popular in Belfast is the 'The John Hewitt' traditional pub which was the first Social Enterprise bar set up in Northern Ireland in 1999 and continues to run today.
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| Guinness at The John Hewitt |
I thoroughly enjoyed sipping my first and only ice cold draft Guinness on the outdoor patio which was full of cheerful Irish folks and travelers.
I sat with a couple from York, England, exchanging travel stories as we toasted each other with our pints!
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| The John Hewitt, Belfast |
There were several small 'entryways' or alleys all over Belfast with interesting little pubs.
Many had musicians playing 'Trad Music'.
Good beer, fun people watching and great music!
Pubs Versus Cathedrals
Does Ireland have more pubs or cathedrals? Who knows? But, there is most likely a pub on nearly every corner of every town in Ireland. Also, there might be two or three on the same block. Obviously, pubs are less expensive to build and maintain, so there could be more pubs.
And yes, cathedrals and pubs are on the same street in Belfast in the Cathedral Quarter. I visited St. Anne's Cathedral, also know as Belfast Cathedral, which is only a few blocks from The John Hewitt pub.
I also toured St. Patrick's Church (1815) which is lovely and serene. Both are on Donegall Street. Both are historic.
Maybe this area should be called the 'Pub Quarter'. Actually, there are seven Quarters which make up Belfast (none of which are called Pub Quarter).
Doolin Pubs
Doolin is a really tiny village with one main road in southwest Ireland on the 'Wild Atlantic Way' with only a few pubs.
You can walk from one end of Doolin to the other in about 30 minutes.
But the music here is the best I heard in all of Ireland. Doolin has been called the 'New Orleans of Irish Music'.
Gus O'Connor's Pub - 1832
Gus O'Connor's Pub was the most popular pub serving flavorful Irish food including beef and Guinness pie, shepherd's pie, boxty ((traditional Irish potato pancake) and pints of Guinness.
Trad music was played several nights a week by local musicians.
There was no set schedule. Just when a few friends want to play music together.
The best 'Irish Trad Music' or Irish Folk Music I heard in all of Ireland was in O'Connor's on my very first Saturday night.
There were seven incredible musicians who played toe-tapping folk music, drinking songs, hornpipe, ballads, jigs, and reels.
All of them had been playing music since they were children simply by picking up an instrument, watching and learning traditional reels, jigs and ballads with other musicians in their family.
They had been playing music together for years and often at small pubs for an impromtu gathering.
Sitting around a large table playing their instruments which included three fiddles, guitars, a mandolin, flute, tin whistles, and the bodhran (traditional drum) playing lively melodies.
A few men sang traditional ballads. And, they all enjoyed several pints until 12:30 am. We all did!
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| New Friends from Doolin |
Anthony's Restaurant Patio
Sunday afternoon we sat outdoors at Anthony's Restaurant enjoying dinner and another wonderful group of local musicians playing trad music. Again, there were seven players in this group including both men and women, plus one of their teenage daughters who played the concertina.
Instruments included three concertinas, three fiddles and a mandolin. We were mesmerized by the most melodious, lyrical Irish music. What I loved most, though, was that the musicians were obviously all good friends and had played together for many years.
Lots of laughter, fun conversations around their table, a few pints of beer. They were just having such fun playing music together.
Doolin Music House
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| Christy Barry |
Our last night in Doolin was extra special. We enjoyed a uniquely private evening of the history of Irish music and folklore.
We sat by the cozy turf fire with musicians, Christy Barry, and his best friend, James Devitt, at the home of Christy and his partner, Sheila.
So interesting because this was an intimate music and story telling session limited to only 28 guests.
We were in awe of these two talented men who had been playing music together for more than 40 years!
The small audience sat on sofas and chairs in their comfortable lounge enjoying local delicacies including Burren Smoked Salmon and Artisanal Cheeses accompanied by wine! Genuine Irish hospitality in such an atmospheric setting.
We were so lucky to buy tickets for this unique and entertaining evening. Our Airbnb host and his wife were kind enough to drive us to Christy Barry's home and coordinate our ride back that evening.
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| Pairc Lodge Airbnb, Doolin |
James played the fiddle with such energetic spirit and enthusiasm!
Christy sang mournful ballads, passionate songs, and happy tunes.
He also shared stories about the songs they were playing, as well as memories from his past.
He played the flute and several types of tin whistles with great vigor, in addition to playing the 'Spoons'.
Yes, I said 'Spoons'. Who knew? And, it was impressive!
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| Tin Whistles, Flutes & Spoons! |
We were also treated to Irish 'ceili dancing' or step dancing by Sheila and Fiona (friend of the family). The men played a fast paced jig or reel as the two women danced with their arms straight down by their sides, feet moving rapidly, legs kicking, and knees high.
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| Sheila and Fiona - Irish Dancing |
It was obvious that they had been performing Irish dancing all of their lives and loved it. So energetic and spirited! Sheila is also an artist and her works surrounded the living room.
But, most interesting were the stories and folklore told by Christy with a sparkle in his eyes, a dimple in his cheek and the true charm of an Irishman!
He could certainly spin a yarn and have you laughing or crying.
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| Barb and Christy Barry |
What a captivating evening in Doolin! Three days of music in this village of 500 people! Doesn't get any better than this!
Killarney Pubs
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| The Laurels Pub - Killarney |
The Laurels - Run by the O'Leary Family for over 100 Years
We went inside to get out of a wet, cold, windy evening and to warm up. Cheerful noises greeted us! Crowded tables full of diners and conversations.
Gorgeous bar top made of highly polished mahogany wood, handsome barkeep tending bar pouring pints and shots, and a small fireplace which we wished had been lit.
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| The Laurels Pub, Killarney |
Looked like a good place for dinner. It did not disappoint.
We had the best seafood chowder and soda bread.
I returned on another evening by myself to have dinner and sat on a wooden bar stool with my feet resting on the brass rail below.
I found that if you sit at the bar, everyone talks to you. If you sit at a table alone, no one talks to you.
All the action is at the bar, especially when you position yourself on the corner of the bar.
You can have a conversation with folks on your left and your right. Plus, you can see everyone, everywhere, all at once!
Guinness is the pint of choice. Did you know that when you order a beer, you're typically served a Guinness!
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| Local Man Sat at the Same Bar Stool Daily |
A local man came into the pub and was greeted by name by the barkeep, Seamus. The older customer, Connor, sat in what appeared to be his usual spot at the bar. There was a newspaper on the bar waiting for him.
Seamus asked if he wanted the 'usual'. He replied yes. Irish whiskey was poured in a slender stainless steel jigger. Then, the whiskey was transferred to a short glass with ice.
Last, the bartender poured water into a small pitcher for Connor to use in his whiskey. He lifted his glass and nodded at the bartender. All was well in his world.
It was so interesting meeting people from Australia, Boston and New York as I had my seafood chowder, soda bread and wine! A 30-something girl from Australia was traveling solo in Ireland, England and then Europe for six months.
Love that she was adventuring alone! My travel companion, Margery, has also done that for years. But now we travel together when we can.
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| Killarney |
Irish Music Pub - Killarney
We listened to an older musician playing his guitar and singing in yet another amazingly beautiful pub full of locals and tourists.
This pub was one of my favorites because of the intricate woodwork, candles burning, oak barrels and soft lighting. Incredible craftsmanship!
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| Irish Music Pub, Killarney |
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| Irish Music Pub, Killarney |
Kilkenny Pubs
Kilkenny, an incredibly beautiful town, is called the "Marble City". People from there were referred to as 'Cats'.
Kilkenny is nicknamed the "Marble City" because the footpaths of the city streets were paved with local Kilkenney black 'marble' which was actually a type of limestone that was highly polished with wear.
It was given the status of a city by Royal Charter in 1609 by King James I of England.
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| Kilkenny Castle - 1195 |
Kilkenny was voted 7th as one of the most lavish cities in the world recently.
I find that interesting because it's really not a big town, but so lovely in every way.
Perhaps the surprising number of handsome, charming pubs is one of the reasons.
Plus there are also so many historic places to visit here.
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| Kilkenny Castle Gardens |
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| Kilkenny Castle - 1195 |
We toured the Kilkenny Castle and Museum.
Took a walking tour around the Medieval Mile learning about the families who had worked and lived there hundreds of years ago.
Also learned about St. Canice's Cathedral and the Round Tower, and St. Mary's Cathedral (1202).
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| Alleyway to the Black Abbey |
But, my favorite place was the graceful, well constructed Black Abbey which was a Dominican Friary from 1225.
Several exquisite stained glass windows filtered the sunlight.
The Abbey continues to be a working parish church.
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| The Black Abbey, Kilkenny |
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| Black Abbey, Kilkenny |
Sitting in a pew with members of the small community listening to the priest deliver his noon mass felt peaceful.
For me, this was an intimate experience with a feeling of tranquility and serenity.
The large stained glass windows behind the altar are known as the "Rosary Window".
These are the largest stained glass windows in Ireland with five great vertical panels.
MacDonagh Junction, crowded with tourists and locals, offers the ultimate shopping experience in the center of Kilkenny.
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| Rothe House, Kilkenny |
Another highlight was our visit to the Rothe House and Gardens on High Street.
This late 16th century merchant's Tudor townhouse complex was made up of three houses, three enclosed courtyards, and a very large garden with an orchard on the very top of the end building.
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| Gardens at Rothe House |
Kyteler's Inn - 1324 - Oldest Pub in Kilkenny
My personal favorite was Kyteler's Inn. Tasty fried fish and chips for dinner in one of the several pub rooms.
Then, harmonious, lyrical fiddle and guitar trad music played by two musicians in a large, banquet hall type of room with yet another hand crafted lovely bar made of oak.
Such entertaining music played by these two guys. And, what fun they had performing!
Kyteler's Inn had several rooms for dining, three separate bars and original tin ceilings.
Such beauty in the deep mahogany wood tables and crimson colored leather banquettes.
Even the stairs were colorful and uniquely hand painted!
Kyteler's is a medieval inn on two floors with cozy stone and beamed bars.
Live Irish music is played every night of the week much to the delight of both locals and tourists.
I loved the aroma of the sheperd's pie, Irish stew, colcannon (creamy mashed potatoes with cabbage) collar and cabbage dish, smoked cod and cheddar pie, and potato soup all being served along with Irish soda bread.
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| Tables all Carved with Cat & Kyteler's Inn |
Hole in the Wall Pub, Kilkenny - 1852
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| Interesting Sign |
Smallest pub I've ever been in. This very tiny bar and music venue was tucked away from High Street down an alleyway housed in the oldest surviving townhouse in Ireland.
You would never know that it was there. And, actually, for years the only way to know of its existence was by word of mouth from a friend.
No sign out front. No set hours of operation. There is also a wrought iron gate which, if closed and locked, means 'pub not open'. And, it was often locked, if you could even find it.
We heard about it from our tour guide as we walked the Medieval Mile who told us that for years the location was not widely known. It was renovated about 10 years ago, but retains its ancient charm and is quite bare bones.
Impromptu music was played on the second floor when musicians decided to drop in and perform together.
Concerts are held there a few evenings a week. The bar on the first floor can only hold about 12 customers.
You can enjoy a drink on a solid wood bar top which is actually a centuries old beam!
The owner, Michael Conway, a cardiologist, is often at the bar and ready to chat because the pub is his passion project.
The music venue (that's being generous) on the second floor attic style area can hold about 30 people total. Seating includes a few folding chairs, couple of old upholstered chairs, footstools and a bit of standing room.
As I said, really small place! Talk about an intimate setting.
You can enjoy a drink on a solid wood counter top which is actually a centuries old beam!
By far the most unique and interesting pub in all of Ireland.
I had a pleasant conversation with the cutest bartender, Alex, who had the most expressive, melodic accent and loves working there.
He's 24 years old and said that he has the best time meeting people from all over the world, as well as the locals whom he has known all of this life.
Matt the Miller's Pub, Kilkenny - 1850s
Another very traditional, well known pub from the 1850s on the River Nore in the heart of Kilkenny.
Great music and food for both the locals and visitors. This large pub has four floors with a bar on each floor.
Left Bank Bar and Grill - Kilkenny
The renovated Bank of Ireland Branch (1870) on The Parade, which is Kilkenny's main square where the St. Patrick's Day review stand is located and one block from Kilkenny Castle, has been transformed into a world famous bar and grill.
The Left Bank Bar features gourmet food and several bar rooms with different taps in each room.
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| Left Bank Bar, Kilkenny |
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| Left Bank Bar, Grand Piano |
Most impressive is the beautifully designed main bar as you enter the front doors.
Great food and several sections in this establishment make it one of the most popular pubs and restaurants in Kilkenny.
It was truly one of the most beautiful pubs I saw in Ireland, again with incredible wood working craftsmanship!
This is something you don't often see in our country. Such a pleasure to enjoy these pubs and restaurants which celebrate their history and historic place in their towns.
Dublin Pubs
The Stag's Head Victorian Pub - 1894
Another historic, amazing pub known for its preservation of its Victorian interior. It has wrought iron chandeliers, ceiling high mirrors, and stained glassed windows.
There is a restored advertising mosaic on the foot path on Dame Court. Extensive rebuilding was done in 1895.
It's tucked away on the corner of Dame Court and Dame Lane near Grafton Street.
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| Advertising Mosaic on Sidewalk |
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| Canadian Elk (Not a Stag) |
Visually pleasing with its high ceilings, finely carved timber work and mirrors, to say nothing about the huge antlered head towering over the bar which isn't even a stag.
This beast is a Canadian elk shot through the eye by the former owner.
There has been a pub on this corner since the 1770s.
The pub has an almost church like quality with stained glass windows, decorative wrought iron railings, and red leather pews.
The exterior boasts three bronze stag's heads casting a cold eye over the courtyard.
It has an authentic snug (small private room with frosted glass windows) and a brilliant stained glass skylight.
Stag's Head is only a stone's throw away from the famous Temple Bar area.
This snug has been featured in many films including Educating Rita and A Man of No Importance.
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| Stag's Head Pub |
There is a private lounge upstairs where we enjoyed an evening of traditional Irish storytelling which was limited to 26 guests.
Yet another special evening in Ireland.
O'Shea's Pub, Dublin
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| O'Shea's Pub, Dublin |
Ah, the luck of the Irish or in my case, just a lucky tourist to have passed by this pub. It was late afternoon on a very windy, cold and drizzly day.
Time to get out of the weather after walking more than two miles from Collins Barracks where I toured the Museum of Decorative Arts and the Asgard Yacht.
O'Shea's was a warm, cozy pub with delicious seafood chowder and the best Guinness bread!
There were three separate pub rooms with two large bars, plus small stage for musicians.
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| O'Shea's Pub, Dublin |
O'Shea's had a resident black and white cat who also seemed to love the ambience!
Temple Bar Pubs - Dublin
The Temple Bar is both the name of the area and the name of the most iconic pub in Ireland.
This pub is the most photographed bar and home to the largest collection of whiskey in Ireland
The drinking age in Ireland is 18, so this area is full of lively Irish music and crowds of young people both in the pubs and on the streets!
Temple Bar is an area on the south bank of the River Liffey with cobblestone streets and narrow alleyways.
The area is lined with street artists, musicians, theatres, open air markets, galleries, pubs, cafes and boutiques.
But, more importantly, daily live traditional music in nearly every pub!
I popped into several pubs just to get a glance at the beautiful interiors and listen to a few minutes of music.
And, people watching is a must!
Don't you just love the pub names?
The Old Guinness Storehouse, The Quays Bar, Foggy Dew Pub, The Auld Dubliner, Busker's Bar, The Palace Bar, Bad Ass Temple Bar, The Brazen Head, The Wild Duck, The Merchants Arch Bar, and Ha'penny Bridge Inn.
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| Ha'penny Bridge, Dublin |
Truth be told, I only had one Guinness while in Ireland. But I so loved pub music, pub food and the pub people that I met!
My pub motto:
"There are no strangers here;
Only friends you haven't met yet."
William Butler Yeats
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